toddpthayer

Hello all,

Quick question on intake manifold connections. My son and I bought a 1967 coupe late last year, and we're rebuilding the motor as his 8th grade master project. The build is going well, and we're getting it together (see pictures below) but as the engine (and the rest of the car) came in pieces, we've had some challenges -even with shop manuals and good reference materials.

One of these I'm stuck on and I'm hoping that someone here can help.
We've installed an Edelbrock Performer intake, and (as we're on a stand) got most of the connections plugged, but there's a couple of small tapped holes that we haven't figured out why they're there.

Has anyone diagrammed or listed the connections for the intake manifold on the early Mustangs? If it'd been together, we might have done better.

Any help appreciated,

Todd

http://s1137.photobucket.com/albums/n517/toddpthayer/

001mustang

wow..just looked at pics...thats nice....beautiful

i just install temp sender and heater hose on my intake; plug the spare egr, etc holes.

better idea .. shoot some nitros in spare holes...oh yeah...

...see ya

PaulS

Todd,
The small threaded holes are for holding different brackets for accessories that you may not be using. You can just leave them open (not the vacuum ports) or you can fill them with set screws. If you use set screws coat the threads with some copper antiseize to prevent electrolysis and corrosion. Any spare vacuum ports can be plugged with pipe plugs of the correct size with some pipe dope.

001mustang

didn't know Cu antiseize prevents electrolysis.

scott_m_mil

Its not uncommon for aftermarket intake manifold to come with extra bracket mounting locations and vacuum ports because they are used on so many applications. Just make sure to plug any extra vacuum holes. A vacuum leak can be a trick to track down sometimes.

toddpthayer

Thanks Scott, Paul and all,

That's what we thought, but we're trying to make sure we're buttoned up for the startup.

We've got a gauge panel including vacuum planned, so that should help with any troubleshooting.

We'll adjust the valves tomorrow, and once the covers are on knock out the electrical.

We were going to try to start it this weekend, but now they say we'll get rain.

Todd

scott_m_mil

Here is an extra tip:

Anytime we build an engine we always try to prime the oil pump before the first start up. It helps the engine get oil a bit quicker, and reduces oil free wear on the new materials.

All you have to do is place a socket on the indentation on the bottom of your distributor's shaft, chuck it in a drill and rotate it counterclockwise. Be careful not to drop the socket in there :S. You may need an extension. Several places also make kits for this so if you want you can spend a few bucks and have all "proper" fitting tools.

It also may be a bit late for this, but make sure you used PLENTY of break in lube on the cam. You might also consider a break in lubricant made for the oil. That first run on an engine is always the roughest.

Good Luck, and don't be afraid to double check even the little things.

Scott

001mustang

just in case you haven't heard.

if it has flat tappet cam u need to pull those pretty headers prior to break in or they will get red hot and damaged.

can use old headers or ex manifold.

be prepared to add H2O during flat tappet break in.

kalli

001: why does that happen during break in? we just had that problem on a 440Magnum. We just advanced ignition by about 10 degrees which solved the problem. i'm just curious. why always on break in ?

OP: the threaded holes that are in the runners (where you'd have air/fuel mixture flow to cylinder) are used for vacuum pickup. I personally don't like the idea of picking up anything there, as it's on a single runner. This usually causes the single cylinder to run different to the others if used. Let's say you'd attach your power brakes there i'd use the vacuum from only this runner. I prefer to block them if possible.
All the ones that lead to water port are for temperature sensors etc. block the ones you don't need.

just on a note: usually when you torque one piece to another you only have to do it once since the suirfaces are flat. however the intake manifold is a wedge and you have to re-torque every single bolt until none of them move anymore. In most cases I have to re-torque those intake bolts in full 5 rounds until the whole lot is finally sitting down. first time I did it I didn't recheck, which caused me a _lot_ of hassle

toddpthayer

Apparently the ceramic coating on the header requires additional curing / but not all at once, and if you're running hot during the break-in, the ceramic will overheat and crack.

from the Hooker (Holley) website

"Installation Notes
Breaking in an engine with ceramic coated Headers WILL result in damage to the coating and will VOID all warranties. Ceramic coated Headers require several heat cycles to fully cure before they will withstand extreme heat. Hooker recommends using cast iron exhaust Manifolds or old Headers to break in new engines to avoid coating damage. Please call Hooker tech service at 270–781–9741 for additional information regarding ceramic coated exhaust products. The use of header wraps can cause the header tubes to crack or rust due to excessive heat and moisture build–up. Hooker does not recommend the use of header wraps as this will void the warranty."


I don't think these are, but we'll pull the headers tonight and check the part number to make sure we're not going to break them.