Engine Oil re-visited
#11
RE: Engine Oil re-visited
This is sure more than I had ever heard about synthetics before. Lots of very interesting input here! I've only used Havoline 10-40 in mine. I'm not running a lot of mods like most of you guys are.
What do you guys think about oil filters? I use only Motorcraft on mine. Do you guys that use synthetic use other filters? Do you change the filters without changing the oil?
What do you guys think about oil filters? I use only Motorcraft on mine. Do you guys that use synthetic use other filters? Do you change the filters without changing the oil?
#12
RE: Engine Oil re-visited
I use Amsoil filters, and change the filter every time I change the oil. I probably could just change the filter at 5K and run the oil another few thou, but I am resistant to that ideology. The Motorcraft and Wix filters are excellent filters, just stay away from Fram.
#13
RE: Engine Oil re-visited
Ahh filters, what a can of worms. The skinny on filters and oil really. There are only a few oil manufacturers in the world, as well as I can think of only three additive makers other than the full synthetic guys. So everyone is buying the oil and additives from the same people. Some oil labelers, Casteroil, for one establishes a minimum standard. Any company can submit their oil with an additive package and if it meets that standard they will paste Casterol on it.
Filters. There are approximately 8 or so manufacturers of filters. Motocraft does not make their own filters, the are actually purolator filters. Go buy a purolator filter and you will usually save a couple of bucks over the motocraft. I am semi-familiar with auto filters. Most of my filter experience comes from Harleys. Fram filters although they have decent filtering layers, use cardboard on each end to secure them. I can't prove this, however I think that once the cardboard gets wet it cannot keep the contaminents from flowing back into my engine. The purolater is a decent filter. I think the Napa filter, which is made by Wix is better. Then probably Amsoil filters, which are made by donaldson. And then the K&N. The K&N has the most filtering area of any filter. I have not cut apart a Mobil 1 or a Deutesh yet. I will not use a K&N oil filter on my Harley becuase it takes 15 PSI to activate the bypass valve. My engine only produces 17 PSI from the factory. Should the oil pump not be pumping at capacity, and something has blocked up the K&N filter, I could be running the bike dry. So I won't use them on my bike.
I saw a study by consumer reports on dino oil. They said that at 3000 miles the average car, the oil looses none to 1 percent of it viscosity. At 4000 miles the oil looses 2-3 percent. At 5000 miles the oil looses 8-11 percent. So I used to always change my dino oil out at 4k miles. I changed the Mobil 1 syn out at 6k when I sued it. I run amsoil 10k-15k. At 10k my diesels Amsoil was still carmel color, when with dino oil in 2k it was black. BTW with Amsoil I change the filter at every 5k and add some oil (usually 1 qt for cars and 2 qts for my truck).
Filters. There are approximately 8 or so manufacturers of filters. Motocraft does not make their own filters, the are actually purolator filters. Go buy a purolator filter and you will usually save a couple of bucks over the motocraft. I am semi-familiar with auto filters. Most of my filter experience comes from Harleys. Fram filters although they have decent filtering layers, use cardboard on each end to secure them. I can't prove this, however I think that once the cardboard gets wet it cannot keep the contaminents from flowing back into my engine. The purolater is a decent filter. I think the Napa filter, which is made by Wix is better. Then probably Amsoil filters, which are made by donaldson. And then the K&N. The K&N has the most filtering area of any filter. I have not cut apart a Mobil 1 or a Deutesh yet. I will not use a K&N oil filter on my Harley becuase it takes 15 PSI to activate the bypass valve. My engine only produces 17 PSI from the factory. Should the oil pump not be pumping at capacity, and something has blocked up the K&N filter, I could be running the bike dry. So I won't use them on my bike.
I saw a study by consumer reports on dino oil. They said that at 3000 miles the average car, the oil looses none to 1 percent of it viscosity. At 4000 miles the oil looses 2-3 percent. At 5000 miles the oil looses 8-11 percent. So I used to always change my dino oil out at 4k miles. I changed the Mobil 1 syn out at 6k when I sued it. I run amsoil 10k-15k. At 10k my diesels Amsoil was still carmel color, when with dino oil in 2k it was black. BTW with Amsoil I change the filter at every 5k and add some oil (usually 1 qt for cars and 2 qts for my truck).
#14
RE: Engine Oil re-visited
Ok, I just got home from teaching, so I am ready to discuss something besides music. Let's take a look at how oil filters are constructed, and why some are more expensive than others.
The filter media materials have changed over the years.
Early designs used steel wool, wire meshes, metal screens, etc.
Latter bulk cotton or various woven fabrics like linen were used.
When disposable filters became popular, cellulose and papers were used to minimize production costs.
Finally "synthetic" media oil filters were introduced where special man made fibers are utilized.
Fiberglass and metal fabrics are also sometimes used for oil filtration.
Today, most low-cost disposable spin-on oil filters use cellulose filter media. Better quality oil filters use synthetic media, while top end oil filter use "MicroGlass" or extremely fine metal mesh.
Now, what filtering media do you prefer? Me??? I prefer the microglass. Try to find that in a purolator. Read about the Amsoil filter here. " AMSOIL Super Duty Oil Filter
The AMSOIL Super Duty Oil Filter is a full flow oil filter designed for extended drain intervals and sever service. Its rugged filter body contains a high-tech blended filter media composed of cellulose, synthetic fibers and glass fibers. This sets the Super Duty apart from conventional filters in capacity, efficiency and service life.
The AMSOIL Super Duty Oil Filter's rugged construction and high-tech media make it ideal for motorists who extend their oil drain intervals, drive hard, want to make their engines last or simply want the best filtration possible."
The filter media materials have changed over the years.
Early designs used steel wool, wire meshes, metal screens, etc.
Latter bulk cotton or various woven fabrics like linen were used.
When disposable filters became popular, cellulose and papers were used to minimize production costs.
Finally "synthetic" media oil filters were introduced where special man made fibers are utilized.
Fiberglass and metal fabrics are also sometimes used for oil filtration.
Today, most low-cost disposable spin-on oil filters use cellulose filter media. Better quality oil filters use synthetic media, while top end oil filter use "MicroGlass" or extremely fine metal mesh.
Now, what filtering media do you prefer? Me??? I prefer the microglass. Try to find that in a purolator. Read about the Amsoil filter here. " AMSOIL Super Duty Oil Filter
The AMSOIL Super Duty Oil Filter is a full flow oil filter designed for extended drain intervals and sever service. Its rugged filter body contains a high-tech blended filter media composed of cellulose, synthetic fibers and glass fibers. This sets the Super Duty apart from conventional filters in capacity, efficiency and service life.
The AMSOIL Super Duty Oil Filter's rugged construction and high-tech media make it ideal for motorists who extend their oil drain intervals, drive hard, want to make their engines last or simply want the best filtration possible."
#15
RE: Engine Oil re-visited
Soaring, I guess I was not clear. I am an Amsoil believer. I really prefer Amsoil filters. However having cut them apart, there are a few trace fibers of glass in the Amsoil. The K&N looked exactly the same it just had more filtering media. Something like 112 pleates, to Amsoils 103. I still put complete confidence in the Amsoil filters.
#16
RE: Engine Oil re-visited
Looks like I did open the proverbial can of worms!
So it would be best to determine the types of mods (high compression & high operating temps) and oil change intervals to decide on what type of filter?
I doubt I will put more than 1000 miles a year on my Mach but I still want to protect it. I change oil & filter twice a year (Havoline 10-40 & Motorcraft filter). I'll be looking at the K&n & Amisol filters to see how they compare.
I'm a beleiver in the old commercial that said "You can pay me now or pay me later (later meaning a major engine overhaul). I think Fram was the sponser of that.
So it would be best to determine the types of mods (high compression & high operating temps) and oil change intervals to decide on what type of filter?
I doubt I will put more than 1000 miles a year on my Mach but I still want to protect it. I change oil & filter twice a year (Havoline 10-40 & Motorcraft filter). I'll be looking at the K&n & Amisol filters to see how they compare.
I'm a beleiver in the old commercial that said "You can pay me now or pay me later (later meaning a major engine overhaul). I think Fram was the sponser of that.
#17
RE: Engine Oil re-visited
Me too John. Just want to make all aware of the filtering capabilities of these filters. I will say this to all, don't go into wall-mart and buy an oil filter. All they have to offer is Fram.
#18
RE: Engine Oil re-visited
It is interesting how many people will pay $6 a quart for oil, but then put a Fram filter on that they got on sale for $2.40
73 Cleveland I would steer you towards NAPA, K&N or Amsoil. The K&N you need to know the pressure of your oil pump and the pressure of the filters relief valve. I just play it safe and get an Amsoil, or if I have to have a filter now - NAPA.
73 Cleveland I would steer you towards NAPA, K&N or Amsoil. The K&N you need to know the pressure of your oil pump and the pressure of the filters relief valve. I just play it safe and get an Amsoil, or if I have to have a filter now - NAPA.
#19
RE: Engine Oil re-visited
There is absolutelely nothing wrong with using 10-40 and a Motorcraft or Wix filter in your engine. Those engines were designed for that. However, you will get a bit more sevice from your vintage engine by using synthetic oils and filters. If you only drive it a K per year, you have nothing to worry about by using the dino oil and filter.