kalli

well the first time I had a SD part i was fiercley annoyed by the packaging. parts spilled on card board and vacuum packed. usually not much wrong there. but we're talking sometimes tiny parts where I usually spend 5 minutes cutting them out with a knife. then I bought a chrome plastic ring that went around the inside door **** at bottom. I know I am clumsy sometimes but I actually managed to brake it trying to get it out of the vacuum pack without using any tools.

The gas cap that I have from them lost the red color in the Mustang lettering after about half year completely and the black is still there after four years (well done on the black!). However in those four years i could never figure how to move the cable in there so that it doesn't stick out on either side. it seems like it is too long and for that the paint around the gascap is all scratched

the red inside the cap has about another year left and then that will be gone as well
I hate to be in your shoes, as if I would have bought those parts in a local shop I would have brought them all back ... I have to order them from outside the country

I'm not impressed either

2+2GT

Good luck with that. They are the only source for many, many items.

Really, you have to take parts as they come. Best thing to do is ask your Mustang dealer about a particular part. Often there is more than one source. Ask them about this, and about how good the part in question is.

noroof66

So true.
I got some defective Patriot headers awhile back and CJs told me they had several returned for same defect, so returning (10 mos later) was no problem. They asked me to also send photos to Patriot... they emailed me saying they have never seen that before.

Iskwezm

Let me rephrase it for you. Anodized parts have no UV coating. Factory parts do have a coating, thats why you see stress cracks on the clear coat.

Is that better for you?

mr_velocity

Earls has been using a Type 1 anodizing that just doesn't hold up, especially on a boat or I guess any constant sunlight applications (my experience has only been on boats). They have come out with a Type 2 or 3 hard anodizing that should hold up a lot better. Haven't used it yet will on my next rebuild.

On the boat, powder coat or anodize? I haven't had much luck with either. My anodized fittings crack once corrosion starts between the stainless braid line and the fitting. I have to check these every year. I haven't had much luck with powder coat in marine use, I know a lot of people use it, I just find that one nick and a year later its coming off in sheets. For larger pieces I've gone to zinc chromate epoxy primer followed by Imron. I haven't had any failures with this combination.

Iskwezm

I dont care for either.I have used Earls,XRP,Russel and some faded worse then others.I had my intake powder coated and it stained and flaked like anything else.I would rather paint, at least i can repair that.

cprstreetmachines

Really ? Why is it when you try to validate something fitting or not fitting you show a picture from 45 feet away ? Ever heard of "Mona Lisa ugly?" Just like you showing a repop door from 60 feet back. If you don't show the line and gaps, the picture is worthless. I've got a repop door here that the handle wouldn't bolt to the door. The screw would not go in straight, so it wouldn't go. I had to go to the store, buy a longer bolt, cut off the head and make it a stud. Loctite it in, and bend the **** out of it and angle it out to get it through the hole so it would work. But I can show you a picture from 40 feet away and say how great the door is. On the same car it took 1/8 strip of metal to extend the door to get the gap right. Not ALL their parts are like this. But for someone who does it all day and relies on it to make money, it's not good enough. Being the only place to get certain parts, doesn't mean they are any good either. You just need to find used original. But again I understand your need to protect your investment.

2+2GT

Is this close enough?

2+2GT

Been there. But I fixed it easier than that, with a drift punch and hammer. Just compress the inner skin and tweak the angle of the hole. The trick is fitting everything before the door is painted.

cprstreetmachines

Those are close enough, but like the last time you posted it, hard to tell a good gap at an angle like that. It would help. but be happy you go one that fit. Doesn't look bad. But, after body work, welding and paint, anyone with good body work skills can make it look like your pics. The car with that door has great gaps,too. But before all that, you could damn near see in the car with the door closed.
A drift punch wasn't fixing this problem. Or if possibly, wouldn't have been willing to dent that much.
Your molding looks good in the front A pillar though. Have gotten those where we couldn't put them on. Line it all up and get ready, but it comes down too far past the drip rail, and installed would actually hit the door.