9 inch rear tear town help
#21
As far as cleaning out the old oil easy off oven cleaner is the thing I found that cut through it fastest. I bought a long handle toilet brush at the dollar store and the oven cleaner there, $1/can. I think I went through 2 cans by the time it was clean. The toilet brush allowed me to get inside the axle tubes from each end and really scrub the old oil out. Don't get it on your skin for long, it'll burn, keep a hose running close by to flush your hands/arms off often. I wore thick rubber gloves and an old long sleeve shirt.
After that I wire brushed the outside and covered w/paint.
Before:
After:
If you're going TracLoc don't forget the FoMoCo friction modifier.
Jon
After that I wire brushed the outside and covered w/paint.
Before:
After:
If you're going TracLoc don't forget the FoMoCo friction modifier.
Jon
Last edited by Jonk67; 04-03-2011 at 09:13 PM.
#23
I use mineral spirits to clean the parts. It bothers me less than oven cleaner. I use SuperClean as well, but for 90% its mineral spirits. I can filter it and use it over and its cheap. Once clean, add the drain plug, and get it all painted back up.
Other things to think about.
1- If you're putting new gears in break it in using mineral based oils. The synthetic stuff is so slippery it won't let the gears break in right.
2- Not sure if you can run synthetic in a Trac-Loc. All I run is lockers and spools so I'm not sure, but I'll bet someone else here on the board has some insight on that.
3- Don't use too much silicone when putting the center section back in.
Other things to think about.
1- If you're putting new gears in break it in using mineral based oils. The synthetic stuff is so slippery it won't let the gears break in right.
2- Not sure if you can run synthetic in a Trac-Loc. All I run is lockers and spools so I'm not sure, but I'll bet someone else here on the board has some insight on that.
3- Don't use too much silicone when putting the center section back in.
#24
thanks guys...jonk67 that came out great! im having a hard time wire brushing all of the rust off of mine...just using a drill and normal wire brush. ill deff try out the oven cleaner too. im going to run a true-trac because ive heard those are good for the streets...what do u guys think? trac-loc or true trac? im also unsure of where to look for parts for my rear. ive never done this before and although im mechanically inclined im getting kinda nervous. im not even sure what parts i need to order.
#25
and im not sure if one is stronger then the other...but i plan on running a built 408 stroker on drag radials, c4 trans also. i might give currie a call tomorrow...its a 9 inch out of a 69 mach one, so itll fit into my 67 coupe...i think currie can give me an axle package with everything i need. im going to upgrade to 32 spline...then ill get the gears and differential (tt or tlok?) from summit? question is can i do this myself...:s
#26
well today i started cleaning it up. went to the dollar store and grabbed some oven cleaner...it worked nicely i must say...having some trouble getting the gasket residue off and i still need to wire brush it more to get the rest of the rust off...this is a stupid question but at the end of the axle tubes i noticed what seems to be an outer bearing that looks like it was pressed into the axle tubes...is this part of the actual housing or do i have to figure out a way to pull it out? the first picture is the axle tube with what i think is an outer bearing i have to remove? and the second is the housing cleaned up.
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._7888711_n.jpg
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._3793756_n.jpg
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._7888711_n.jpg
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._3793756_n.jpg
Last edited by built67; 04-06-2011 at 08:29 PM.
#27
You scared me there for a second, I was trying to figure out how the bearing could still be in the axle tube and not on the axle shaft when removed, welded together was the only thing I could think of before I saw the pic....That is the SEAL. Get a seal puller and a gasket scraper while you're at it, you'll use them again at some point and worth the $12 you'll spend on the each of them. Of course you need a pair of new seals, look up the part # for the year/model the rear came out of.
Seal puller:
gasket scraper:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-26...tools-485.aspx
If you're going back with drums there is a paper gasked between the drum/flange and drum/retainer ring:
Your build is very similar to mine and I've got a sister that lives in Manhattan, if you cut her off in your coupe she'll probably think it's me...
Jon
Seal puller:
gasket scraper:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-26...tools-485.aspx
If you're going back with drums there is a paper gasked between the drum/flange and drum/retainer ring:
Your build is very similar to mine and I've got a sister that lives in Manhattan, if you cut her off in your coupe she'll probably think it's me...
Jon
Last edited by Jonk67; 04-06-2011 at 09:23 PM.
#28
thanks a lot Jon...all of your tips have helped out a lot so far. i am going back with drums, so ill definitely need those gaskets. is this the first rear build you have done? im trying to find a good book to lead me through this step by step, but i havent found one yet
#30
THis was my first diff teardown and rebuild but I didn't build the 3rd member. I don't have the tools or time to set backlash, etc. so I bought a '69 9" off CL, pulled the conv. 3rd and traded it towards an already rebuilt tracloc 3rd from a fleabay seller that I drove to to trade/pay. I did the easy part with disassembly/ cleaning and bolting it back together/ up IMO. Haven't driven on it yet but if I had rebuilt the 3rd I'd be too worried that I'd get a whine and have to tear it back down...trusted someone who does these daily.
Jon
Jon