built67

hey guys...so i finally got a free day to work on the car so i started to take apart the 9inch i purchased. its out of a 69 mach 1. both drums came apart fine...axles came out no problem...then i took off the 10 nuts around the pumpkin (i think the proper name is 3rd member?) because i wanted to open it up. only problem is even though all the nuts are off, I cant get it to separate. is there anything im missing here? or do i just have to take a hammer and chisel to it bc of all the years of rust and grime holding it together? and is this also the only way to drain the fluid out also? thanks for the help guys

Jonk67

There should be a plug on the drivers side of the pumpkin that takes a square drive end, I think a 1/2" drive extension fit it if I remember right. If all the nuts are off the pumpkin it's just sealed due to the gasket and fact that it's mounted on studs so it's got to come straight off. I'd work your way 360* around the seal with a chisel in between the studs a few times until you get it to crack loose enough to get a screwdriver in there and work your way around.

The fluid is THICK and smells AWFUL so get as much drained as you can, it'll be 2-3qts. so catch it and turn it in for recycle. Have something fluid proof and disposable under it when it cracks open. I had the best luck with oven cleaner for clean up of the inside of the housing. I didn't have to clean the pumpkin/gears as I traded it in on a rebuilt pumpkin.



You can just see the silver plug from the side on the rt. side bottom across from the stud:



Don't forget the Ford friction modifier when you refill if it's a tracloc.
Jon

jmk3

The plug is for filling not draining, I would leave 4 or so nuts on but loose to catch it when you bust it loose. This will also make the gear oil come out a little slower.

gjz30075

If the axles are out, you can drain the fluid out one of the axle tubes. Tip it up and out it comes. It'll be slow so be prepared to rig up something to hold the housing up.

built67

thanks a lot guys...i sprayed PB Blaster around the perimeter and im letting it soak in for a couple of days so hopefully that helps...kind've an annoying design that you have to pull an axle or pull the third member off to train it out. im thinking about drilling and tapping in a drain plug to make it easier to change the fluid once the rear is done

boogerschnot

A drain plug is a great idea. They do make a suction pump that allows you to put a hose into the fill hole and hand pump the oil out of the housing. Then you use the same pump to pump the new oil back in. There is no need for the pb blaster. Just get a screwdriver and pry away from the housing at a few different places and pull it out. Its heavy and glued on by the gasket material. Be carefull.

frdnut

There are small flat washers on the studs that can bind and prevent the third member from coming out..You will need to make sure all of those are off..Then use a screw driver to pry around the third member till it comes out..Also double check to make sure you got all of the nuts off..

built67

thanks guys, i realized the washers are still on there...i cleaned it up more and after getting a lot of grime off they reviled themselves, so ill get those off first then pry it off...has anyone ever fabbed in a drain plug in one of these rears?

hightower2011

If I were you, or myself, I'd go with booger's suggestion for that pump. Sounds like an easy solution.

built67

ill definitely go for the pump...btw i FINALLY got the 3rd member off of the housing...it took over an hour of prying to get it off and the gear oil was like mud. talk about a bad smell!