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Advice on cam, intake, and head combo

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Old 03-28-2011, 08:44 PM
  #21  
frdnut
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Originally Posted by Dennis Marks
Do I need to just cut some of it off. I hate the trumk lid sticking up. I am probably being ****, but that's me. All came from NPD. Do I need to try another source? That is probably the problem. With all the power you are making, what all have you done to the frame? Much appreciated.
The weatherstrip should crush down and relax over a period of time..My trunk lid was hard to shut for a while after I installed mine but gradually it returned to normal..I actually adjusted the latch to take a bit of the pressure off initially so I didn't have to slam the lid so hard to get it to shut...I can pretty much guarantee that is where your exhaust smell is coming from if you aren't running the seal......
As for my frame I have Competition bolt on subframe connectors but have them welded on..I am also running an export brace but that is it..
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:00 PM
  #22  
Dennis Marks
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Originally Posted by frdnut
The weatherstrip should crush down and relax over a period of time..My trunk lid was hard to shut for a while after I installed mine but gradually it returned to normal..I actually adjusted the latch to take a bit of the pressure off initially so I didn't have to slam the lid so hard to get it to shut...I can pretty much guarantee that is where your exhaust smell is coming from if you aren't running the seal......
As for my frame I have Competition bolt on subframe connectors but have them welded on..I am also running an export brace but that is it..
Looks like I will be reinstalling the weatherstrip and living with it until it flattens out. I noticed you said competition frame connectors, which I would think would be heavier than the standard ones. Who makes the heavier ones. Thanks for the help.
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:37 PM
  #23  
67mustang302
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That setup is fine with a 3.92 gear. The only issue might be a slightly small carb at 600cfm, a good 650-750 would work better but the 600 won't be a major issue.

And those cam specs don't mean much, without knowing the io/ic/eo/ec points you don't actually have cam specs. My hyd roller is 218/.050 intake 230/.050 exhaust and the lift is .590/.578 on a 111 lsa. The power band is 2,000-6,500rpm with huge torque in the 3,000-6,500 range. Idles with a bit of a lump and 10" of vacuum completely stable at 800rpm.
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Old 03-29-2011, 04:03 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 67mustang302
That setup is fine with a 3.92 gear. The only issue might be a slightly small carb at 600cfm, a good 650-750 would work better but the 600 won't be a major issue.

And those cam specs don't mean much, without knowing the io/ic/eo/ec points you don't actually have cam specs. My hyd roller is 218/.050 intake 230/.050 exhaust and the lift is .590/.578 on a 111 lsa. The power band is 2,000-6,500rpm with huge torque in the 3,000-6,500 range. Idles with a bit of a lump and 10" of vacuum completely stable at 800rpm.
i don't think you'd ever get a stable idle vacuum at 800 with such a lift/duration/lsa. must be the perks of a custom grind.

I don't know if it was covered before. But that block he's having he said he is not changing anything on bottom end. How far could you actually safely spin this thing? thos will be a huge decision factor on the cam?
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Old 03-29-2011, 10:08 AM
  #25  
Dennis Marks
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Originally Posted by 67mustang302
That setup is fine with a 3.92 gear. The only issue might be a slightly small carb at 600cfm, a good 650-750 would work better but the 600 won't be a major issue.

And those cam specs don't mean much, without knowing the io/ic/eo/ec points you don't actually have cam specs. My hyd roller is 218/.050 intake 230/.050 exhaust and the lift is .590/.578 on a 111 lsa. The power band is 2,000-6,500rpm with huge torque in the 3,000-6,500 range. Idles with a bit of a lump and 10" of vacuum completely stable at 800rpm.
Thanks very much. I'm getting ready to place my order with Summit. This is a backwards rebuild and the carb has less than 200 miles on it. I will eventually change if it poses a problem. I am over $20,000 over on this resto already and $ and my wife's patience are both running thin. After reading forums all night last night I am skeptical about the cheapo headers I have on it now. I have a pair of $200 Tri-Y Patriot headers from NPD ( 1.5/1.7" primary with a 2.5" collector with 2 1/2" pipes). I have no idea if these are any good or not. I know it is not one of the brands mentioned and I figured they fall in the "you get what you pay for category". I had no idea there was anything like these forums when I started 5 years ago and got some sh.... work and a lot of bad advice locally. Now I am paying again to try to do it right and doing a lot of reading and learning.
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Old 03-29-2011, 12:16 PM
  #26  
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The headers will be a bit small for the setup in terms of top end power, but the low and mid range will be fine. Things like carbs and headers can always be replaced later.

As far as bottom end and rpm, I'm running a stock replacement crank. Stock 302 cranks are high nodular iron cranks, aka cast steel. The rods are decent, and with some better pistons it should be ok to 6,500, but I personally would be nervous turning it that continuously like in a road race setup. But for a street strip/cruiser it's fine, provided everything is in good shape.

A good set of light pistons go a long way in that regard, rods usually fail at the top of the exhaust stroke when the piston changes direction. The lighter the piston, the less the inertial loading placed on the rod.

And yes, stable 10" vacuum 800rpm idles are the perks of a custom cam. =) Things like lift and duration just tell you the lift and duration, but now when the valves open and close or the profile of the cam.
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Old 03-29-2011, 12:34 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Dennis Marks
Looks like I will be reinstalling the weatherstrip and living with it until it flattens out. I noticed you said competition frame connectors, which I would think would be heavier than the standard ones. Who makes the heavier ones. Thanks for the help.
Sorry I meant to say Competition Engineering which is the company name..They are plenty heavy for your application..
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:16 PM
  #28  
Dennis Marks
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Originally Posted by 67mustang302
That setup is fine with a 3.92 gear. The only issue might be a slightly small carb at 600cfm, a good 650-750 would work better but the 600 won't be a major issue.

And those cam specs don't mean much, without knowing the io/ic/eo/ec points you don't actually have cam specs. My hyd roller is 218/.050 intake 230/.050 exhaust and the lift is .590/.578 on a 111 lsa. The power band is 2,000-6,500rpm with huge torque in the 3,000-6,500 range. Idles with a bit of a lump and 10" of vacuum completely stable at 800rpm.
I am no trying to be stupid, but I have no idea what all those initials stand for. I did post some additional specs that I found if this helps any. I also read where this combo should give 10-12" vacuum at idle. Remember, I am learning with every thread.

#7122

ENGINE: FORD 289-302 V8
RPM RANGE: 1500-6500

Duration at 0.006" Lift: Intake: 290° Exhaust: 300°
Duration at 0.050" Lift: Intake: 224° Exhaust: 234°
Lift at Cam: Intake: 0.310" Exhaust: 0.325"
Lift at Valve: Intake: 0.496" Exhaust: 0.520"
Timing at 0.050" lift: Open Close
Intake: 5° BTDC 39° ABDC
Exhaust: 54° BBDC 0° ATDC
Centerlines: Lobe Separation - 112° Intake Centerline - 107°

If that is of no help, let me know what everything stands for. I have already compiled a big folder on swapping these few parts. Thanks for your patience.
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:22 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by kalli
i don't think you'd ever get a stable idle vacuum at 800 with such a lift/duration/lsa. must be the perks of a custom grind.

I don't know if it was covered before. But that block he's having he said he is not changing anything on bottom end. How far could you actually safely spin this thing? thos will be a huge decision factor on the cam?
I would like to know the answer to that question myself. Any ideas? If I put it on a dyno can I find that out or is that a waste of time? I want to do the bottom end later. I just don't have the $ right now. Maybe it won't fly apart until then which might be a while.
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:27 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by frdnut
Sorry I meant to say Competition Engineering which is the company name..They are plenty heavy for your application..
Thanks
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