Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

1968 289 H2O

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Old 03-30-2011, 08:37 PM
  #11  
scootchu
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So are you going to pull the engine or repair it where it is? I will be watching.
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:02 PM
  #12  
Gregski
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Originally Posted by scootchu
So are you going to pull the engine or repair it where it is? I will be watching.
I am not ruling anything out but so far the plan is to do as little as possible, not because I am lazy but to learn/prove that's all you have to do to fix things. Basically use common sense, if I can replace the pistons or rings with the block in the car, so be it, you know what I'm saying? So I am not going to remove the engine and send it to a machine shop, write them a check, then drop it back in, LOL.

I am a computer nerd, so I often fall back on analogies to a computer, so here it goes. Yes reinstalling the operating system on your computer will fix your video card problem, but so would just uninstalling and reinstalling the video card driver. The operating system reinstall sometimes called a re image is the equivalent of rebuilding the whole motor, where as replacing the video card driver, is putting on new rings and gaskets and calling it a day.

Since you didn't ask here's another one for you. How many times did you call the Computer Help Desk with a problem and they told you to reboot the computer, well nothing pisses you off more than hearing that right? Well it is a whole lot easier to tell your high turn over staff on the help desk to have you do that, than to explain to them how to walk you (the pissed off customer) through rebuilding the TCP/IP stack, or stop and restart all the relevant Services in proper sequence. But that's why they have you do it. Well I don't want to reboot my Mustang I just want it to make some noise and smoke.

Just trying to explain where I am coming from and maybe since anyone reading this is using a computer, they will be able to relate.

Last edited by Gregski; 03-30-2011 at 09:16 PM.
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Old 03-31-2011, 02:53 AM
  #13  
Gregski
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Originally Posted by 2+2GT
I really dig the blue distributor cap, but that Motorcraft carb has got to go.
Not the cap, carb or the intake manifold will find their way back on to the car. The manifold is a SMOG EGR valve port equipped wonder of the 70's, (note the aluminum block off plate where the EGR valve would mount up to) it could work but I don't like the EGR port sticking up like that, just not aesthetically pleasing. I do own a 4 barrel 60's intake manifold and two choices of four barrel carbs, an Autolite and a Holley so one of those will find their way on to the car.

Here is the cap and my dime a dozen trusty old two barrel carb off the car, and the old intake manifold as well as a shot of what the intake looked liked when I took the carb off. Yes I know you don't have to take the carb off to take the manifold off, but I like to do things one step at a time to see what lurks beneath. I enjoy playing mechanical archeologist that way, the car has a way of speaking to you.








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Old 03-31-2011, 05:02 AM
  #14  
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throw that motorcraft 2150 carb as far as you can ....
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Old 03-31-2011, 09:33 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Gregski
Not the cap, carb or the intake manifold will find their way back on to the car. The manifold is a SMOG EGR valve port equipped wonder of the 70's, (note the aluminum block off plate where the EGR valve would mount up to) it could work but I don't like the EGR port sticking up like that, just not aesthetically pleasing. I do own a 4 barrel 60's intake manifold and two choices of four barrel carbs, an Autolite and a Holley so one of those will find their way on to the car.

Here is the cap and my dime a dozen trusty old two barrel carb off the car, and the old intake manifold as well as a shot of what the intake looked liked when I took the carb off. Yes I know you don't have to take the carb off to take the manifold off, but I like to do things one step at a time to see what lurks beneath. I enjoy playing mechanical archeologist that way, the car has a way of speaking to you.








Those are some excellent doorstops. Is there corrosion inside the intake ports of the heads?
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Old 03-31-2011, 09:24 PM
  #16  
Gregski
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Default The Valley Pan

Removing the intake manifold revealed a pretty clean valley pan in my opinion aside from the white powdery crud that fell out of the intake manifold as I was removing it. Nothing a shop vac can't suck up.

Now we can see the surface rust on the push rods (the pencil looking vertical sticks, eight on each side of the valley).

This is where our plan of attack may go our separate ways, I am planning on just cleaning off the rust off of the push rods, but something tells me you all will tell me to get new push rods. Think what the fellers of the late 60's early 70's would do. Would they run to their local corner auto parts store, or reach for a gentle wire brush?

Lets plan on arguing over this when I actually take them out and see how straight they are, and if I can blow through them, cause as you know they are hollow on the inside (newbies take notes - I didn't know that either), ok, promise?




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Old 04-01-2011, 07:20 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Gregski
Removing the intake manifold revealed a pretty clean valley pan in my opinion aside from the white powdery crud that fell out of the intake manifold as I was removing it. Nothing a shop vac can't suck up.

Now we can see the surface rust on the push rods (the pencil looking vertical sticks, eight on each side of the valley).

This is where our plan of attack may go our separate ways, I am planning on just cleaning off the rust off of the push rods, but something tells me you all will tell me to get new push rods. Think what the fellers of the late 60's early 70's would do. Would they run to their local corner auto parts store, or reach for a gentle wire brush?

Lets plan on arguing over this when I actually take them out and see how straight they are, and if I can blow through them, cause as you know they are hollow on the inside (newbies take notes - I didn't know that either), ok, promise?

Nah push rods will work just fine the way they are, they'll last a lot longer than the rest of the motor.
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Old 04-01-2011, 08:01 AM
  #18  
Norm Peterson
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I might go just a little further than just blowing through them to see if they're plugged or not. I'd want to have a better idea that even though they aren't entirely plugged solid that the passages are open enough to flow sufficient oil. Can't tell that from here

Kind of like wanting to know ahead of time that your connection is going to be able to stream that video without pausing to refill the buffer, I think. Except that your engine's top end oiling doesn't have the mechanical equivalent of a buffer.


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Last edited by Norm Peterson; 04-01-2011 at 08:07 AM.
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Old 04-01-2011, 08:20 AM
  #19  
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Did you try and turn the crank, I didn't see anything that said you did. Would be interesting to see with the amount of water that appears to have gone down 2,3,6,7 if its seized or not.
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Old 04-01-2011, 08:59 AM
  #20  
Gregski
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Originally Posted by mr_velocity
Did you try and turn the crank, I didn't see anything that said you did.
Yes I did and it would not budge, sorry I should have made that clear in the beginning, good point.
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