Full Frontal - POR15 & Metal Rescue Evaluation
#1
Full Frontal - POR15 & Metal Rescue Evaluation
Are you tired of this stupid car yet? Yeah it's me again, another month another project phase. Last time I force fed you some pictures, we were shooting primer on the car. Now four months later it's time to address the front end, front clip, engine bay, what ever you wanna call it. Yes this is a sister thread to the "1968 289 H2O" but I want to keep them separate, that one is mechanical and this one will be more on beautification and aesthetics. Divide and conquer baby, divide and conquer.
This will deal with rust removal, prep, and finally painting with a focus on product evaluation. I will be trying POR15, Metal Rescue, and maybe even dab with powder coating.
I will not be fixing or replacing the brakes, (I will not be explaining the difference between brakes and breaks, but I reserve the right to use it inappropriately now and then, lol) I will not be fixing or replacing the suspension, and I will not be fixing or replacing the steering, IN THIS PHASE.
OK, what the he11 will you be doing then, drinking beer? First having a blast, doing stuff with my hands, using power tools, learning how a car is put together. I will be painting all sheet metal semi gloss black, and most brackets and pulleys gloss black, some brackets will receive silver paint for additional contrast, ie, tie rods, anti-sway bars, strut rods, etc.
But I am here to ask questions too and hear your advice, I know some of you may not agree with my choice of color, so focus on the durability of the product or it's effectiveness in rust removal, etc, or just hang out for the jokes.
This will deal with rust removal, prep, and finally painting with a focus on product evaluation. I will be trying POR15, Metal Rescue, and maybe even dab with powder coating.
I will not be fixing or replacing the brakes, (I will not be explaining the difference between brakes and breaks, but I reserve the right to use it inappropriately now and then, lol) I will not be fixing or replacing the suspension, and I will not be fixing or replacing the steering, IN THIS PHASE.
OK, what the he11 will you be doing then, drinking beer? First having a blast, doing stuff with my hands, using power tools, learning how a car is put together. I will be painting all sheet metal semi gloss black, and most brackets and pulleys gloss black, some brackets will receive silver paint for additional contrast, ie, tie rods, anti-sway bars, strut rods, etc.
But I am here to ask questions too and hear your advice, I know some of you may not agree with my choice of color, so focus on the durability of the product or it's effectiveness in rust removal, etc, or just hang out for the jokes.
#2
Put the POR15 all over your hands, wait 3 hours then tell us how good it is
Seriously, do whatever you can NOT to get POR on yourself. Once is sets its there until it wears off. Also don't cut any corners in prep for POR, otherwise you'll find it peeling off in sheets. If you plan on top coating it, you have to do it while its in its "tac" phase otherwise you have to rough it up....not an easy task. One last thing, don't "buy" their "flat" claim, por will dry gloss/semi gloss. I went for the flat in my engine bay, after getting a gloss finish the company told me "yea we have that problem sometimes."
Now get to it, can't wait to see the progress!!!
Seriously, do whatever you can NOT to get POR on yourself. Once is sets its there until it wears off. Also don't cut any corners in prep for POR, otherwise you'll find it peeling off in sheets. If you plan on top coating it, you have to do it while its in its "tac" phase otherwise you have to rough it up....not an easy task. One last thing, don't "buy" their "flat" claim, por will dry gloss/semi gloss. I went for the flat in my engine bay, after getting a gloss finish the company told me "yea we have that problem sometimes."
Now get to it, can't wait to see the progress!!!
#4
Another pro POR-15 person here. I use it on my race car chassis and suspension parts. NOTHING lasts as long, the underside of a racecar basically gets sandblasted throughout the year but this stuff stays on. And it stayed on my hands for weeks too. :-)
#7
Back To The Future
some time later...
... dude that looks almost the same, yes but if you squint just right you can see that now the cowl vent area is primed, one drum is almost rust free, and what would be the wheel wells are clean(er) so it's time to do the front
... dude that looks almost the same, yes but if you squint just right you can see that now the cowl vent area is primed, one drum is almost rust free, and what would be the wheel wells are clean(er) so it's time to do the front
#8
Here is our '65...
https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...s-of-pics.html
I used a product called Chassis Saver, it is similar to POR15 and does the same thing. But as others have stated DO NOT deviate on the prep. Go exactly what is stated on the can and nothing else. Chassis Saver prep is different then POR15 prep, don't follow another products prep, and visa versa, and think you will be OK.
Lynn
https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...s-of-pics.html
I used a product called Chassis Saver, it is similar to POR15 and does the same thing. But as others have stated DO NOT deviate on the prep. Go exactly what is stated on the can and nothing else. Chassis Saver prep is different then POR15 prep, don't follow another products prep, and visa versa, and think you will be OK.
Lynn
#10