Granny Tranny
#1
Granny Tranny
I have read a lot of posts regarding clutch chatter. I've also read that worn z-bar bushings can contribute to the shaking when starting from first. I checked the z-bar and WHAM!, that baby's loose! New bushings on the way. I also noticed a bit of oil between the rubber clutch boot and the bell housing.
If there is oil there, is that a clear indication of oil contamination in/on the clutch? I don't see any signs of oil coming from anywhere but inside.
How loose(tight) should the connection be between the z-bar and the ?plumb bob adjuster?
I am also noticing when at the upper end of 1st it has a loud whining, almost like a tilt-a-whirl starting up if you know what I mean. Gear going out? something more exciting?
Any input is appreciated.
1st post. I owe a case.
If there is oil there, is that a clear indication of oil contamination in/on the clutch? I don't see any signs of oil coming from anywhere but inside.
How loose(tight) should the connection be between the z-bar and the ?plumb bob adjuster?
I am also noticing when at the upper end of 1st it has a loud whining, almost like a tilt-a-whirl starting up if you know what I mean. Gear going out? something more exciting?
Any input is appreciated.
1st post. I owe a case.
#3
I think the only way to find out if there is oil on the clutch is to drop the transmission and have a look. As far as whining it could be a couple of things including just normal noise. While you've got the transmission out to inspect the clutch, take the top cover off and look for any obvious damage or excessive wear. To be honest its only a few hours of work on these cars.
Scott
Scott
#4
make sure to put a zerk fitting on the equalizer tube to keep it filled with grease. The bushings will pretty much last forever after that. Some come with them, although it's not original.
Pry the lower pushrod away from the release lever until there is no slack in the linkage or lever. The gap should be 1" at the tip of the pushrod.
Pry the lower pushrod away from the release lever until there is no slack in the linkage or lever. The gap should be 1" at the tip of the pushrod.
#5
make sure to put a zerk fitting on the equalizer tube to keep it filled with grease. The bushings will pretty much last forever after that. Some come with them, although it's not original.
Pry the lower pushrod away from the release lever until there is no slack in the linkage or lever. The gap should be 1" at the tip of the pushrod.
Pry the lower pushrod away from the release lever until there is no slack in the linkage or lever. The gap should be 1" at the tip of the pushrod.
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