67mustang302

Stall speed is the speed in engine rpm where the converter stops slipping(or reaches the least amount of slip, or it may lockup etc). Basically the converter will "slip" like a clutch up to the stall speed, the same as bringing the engine up to a higher rpm before totally engaging a clutch.

Put the car in gear, and stand on the brake so it can't go anywhere, and give it gas so the engine revs. At some rpm the engine won't rev any higher, and stall speed for the converter is usually a few hundred rpm above that. So with a 3,500 stall sitting in gear with one foot on the brake, if you stand on the gas the engine will rev up to about 3,200 rpm give or take.

PaulS

The stall rpm is the point at which the converter "locks up" as a fluid coupling device. With the proper hp the converter will let the engine spin up to 3500 rpm faster than the transmission input shaft under full load. It is unlikely that you will ever experience total stall as the car will move long before the stall point is reached. At stall the converter doubles the torque the engine makes and gives that to the transmission. Under stall conditions the fluid will reach critical temperature within 15 - 20 seconds. That is why you need a big cooler.

Brandon D

Thanks for the info guys, I'll be driving the car again in a few days and will give this a try and see what I come up with.

Brandon D

Well after an insanely busy summer 2 things became clear. I don't have time to drive my toys and my knowledge of high performance builds is a LOT more limited than I like to admit, regardless of how much money I throw at them. I managed to get the car running quite good but am still having an issue trying to adjust the valves. I have tried several methods and the only one I have luck with is to get the car running, loosen rocker arms off and then tighten them until they stop chattering. Of course as one would expect this makes a horrible mess. I cut the top off some old valve covers I had lying around which helps but still doesn't stop all the oil from getting out. I thought I had them all adjusted properly but I took the car for a short drive and when I returned to the garage I noticed a small "popping" sound in the exhaust note on the passengers side indicating a valve was most likely out of adjustment? I tried 3 different times before I put the car away for the winter but can't seem to eliminate this "popping" sound. Does anyone know what this might be or an easy way to ensure the valves are properly adjusted and eliminate this sound? Maybe my mechanical knowledge is limited on this issue as well and the sound is coming from something else? As always any help or advice is appreciated.

jojobanks

it could be a timing or a carb issue. Or it could be something as simple as a spark plug wire isn't seated all the way. More info on the popping sound is needed.

frdnut

Try doing a compression test..If an exhaust valve isn't closing properly the compression should be lower in that cylinder...If you are setting the valves with the engine running they should be good as long as they are staying set where you put them..How much are you tightening the adjuster nut after you acheive zero lash(no clacking)?

Brandon D

I was thinking a carb issue but it's very evident it's on the passengers side which lead me to believe it's a valve. I give them a half turn once the lash is taken out and can't even get a half turn on some of them. I also suspected a spark issue and found one wire was melted and was arcing on the header so I replaced it and still have the same issue. Of course 1 wire was now a different color so I bought a full new set of wires and some heat boots but haven't put them on yet. I'm also not happy with the Edelbrock carb I have so I ordered up a new intake and Holley carb and also ordered a pushrod length checker so I'll be doing that once spring comes around. I gave all the specs to Comp and they recommended these push rods but I want to double check that before I go any further. I'm going to have the intake off again anyways so it won't be a big deal. Then I'll try pre-setting the valves again, run the car and see how it turns out. It spent the majority of last summer in pieces so I want to get it running early and try to enjoy it a bit this summer!

frdnut

What do you mean when you say "you can't even get half a turn on some of them" when talking about doing the valve lash?..Are you out of threads or?...Having said that 1/2 turn should be enough...I am not sure how comp can recommend a pushrod length..There are just too many variables to know what the length it would be without measuring it(head gasket thickness,decked block,milled heads etc).

mr_velocity

New cam, lifters and rockers did you check the push rod length?

MonsterBilly

I fought a similar issue as you with the sound you are talking about. Ended up being a small exhaust leak.