Brandon D

Hi Guys,
Well I bought a '65 Coupe last year that had a full restore and supposedly had a new engine. Went to replace a leaky rear main seal 2 weeks ago and found it was a well used 302 block with new parts on it to make it look new. Pulled a few main bearing caps while the pan was off and they showed extensive wear so I decided to bite the bullet and rebuild it properly. I had the block bored, ordered some Keith Black 10:1 racing pistons. Ordered a Comp Cam Thumpr full roller package and a tricked out set of aluminum heads with 2.05 valves. The engine already had been converted to electronic ignition and has a good set of large tube headers. It came with an Edelbrock Performer aluminum intake and I'm wondering if that is a decent intake for the build I'm doing? If not, what would the guys that have built some decent engines recommend for a good carb and intake combo? I don't want to hit the track with it but want an aggressive street machine that can hold its own. It's an auto with about a 1800-2000rpm stall in it. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

mr_velocity

Holley 650 HP double pumper (Bigs Carbs stage 5), Stealth intake or Airgap. I decided on stealth, was worried about clearance on my 66 with the taller air gap. I went with a custom cam with morell lifters, FTI push rods and comp pro magnum rockers on top of trickflow heads. What is a set of "tricked out" aluminum heads?

Brandon D

Thanks for the reply, I'm also worried about clearance and don't want anything too tall. I'll take a look at the carb and intake and see what availability and pricing is like around here. Performance parts are about 50% more up here in the great white north for some reason and are sometimes hard to get. "Tricked Out" heads is just my slang for some Ford GT-40 aluminum heads I got. I had them set up with Stainless one piece valves, bronze guides and double valve springs.

mr_velocity

You may or may not have to change the valve springs to meet your cam profile or select a cam profile to match your valve springs or hopefully got lucky and they'll just match. Mine didn't
No matter what cam you select you need to degree it and check the ptv as well as the radial clearance.....or you can hope you get lucky and just run it that way. You'll need to get an adjustable push rod and get the rod length correct as well, don't believe what you read, you need to measure. Trickflow was off .050 on the rod lengths.
Not sure if you've done it before, if not here are some pics from my build.
https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...dstang-18.html

frdnut

Yes you need to ditch the performer..A performer rpm/air gap would work for well for you..

Brandon D

Thanks for the info and by the way that is one beautiful engine that you built yourself, my hats off to you!! As for mine, I gave all my cam specs to the guy that is building my heads and he changed valve springs and set them up to work perfectly with the cam. I also had the rod lengths measured and ordered a good set of push rods that are exactly the length I need. I've built more than a few engines in my day so I knew to be very careful with all of that. I just get a little lost when it comes to matching intakes and carbs for good air flow and fuel delivery. Most guys think the biggest carb that will fit is the best idea but that will often hurt you more than it will help. Thanks to everyone for their advice and feel free to offer more if you haven't commented yet and have another set up that works good for you.

JMD

IMO RPM Air Gap....

It should fit on a 302 in a 65 easy enough, probably be able to run a carb spacer with a low pro air cleaner.

My son was running one under the hood on his 66 with a 351, no spacer, no choke carb, low pro air cleaner, 1/2" drop mounts.

The addition of a carb with a choke meant that no air cleaner would fit, but this tells me that it should fit on a 302, even if it might be kinda close.....



Here was our solution...

Brandon D

Well I have a buddy that had a like new Edelbrock air gap intake so I bought it off him for $75. Problem is that the guy he got it off painted it blue. Has anyone found a good way to remove paint off an aluminum intake? I brought it into an engine shop and had them dunk it in an aluminum bath and clean it up but the paint didn't come off at all. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

67mustang302

Brake cleaner takes paint off, even from things you don't want it to.

And what cam/head setup did you go with? You might need a lot more stall, especially with a mechanical carb.

MustangFTW

hood scoops look cool as long as there not too big and flimsy.