Car still not idling, need help...
06-26-2011, 05:01 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: GA
Posts: 261
Car still not idling, need help...
Okay, my car still will not idle, I have done the following in order to try to fix the problem but I am still having the same issue:
-rebuilt and readjusted the carburetor
-new intake gaskets to fix the leaking old ones
-new plugs
-new wires
-tried another coil
-new gas
-new filters
-checked all the grounds
-bypassed the resistor in the factory harness
-new control module in the distributor
-checked the timing
-made sure all of the advance parts in the distributor were in working condition
I have tried all of these things with no change with the idle...any ideas as to where my problem may be? Any help would be appreciated.
-rebuilt and readjusted the carburetor
-new intake gaskets to fix the leaking old ones
-new plugs
-new wires
-tried another coil
-new gas
-new filters
-checked all the grounds
-bypassed the resistor in the factory harness
-new control module in the distributor
-checked the timing
-made sure all of the advance parts in the distributor were in working condition
I have tried all of these things with no change with the idle...any ideas as to where my problem may be? Any help would be appreciated.
06-26-2011, 07:02 PM
#2
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 429
When it is trying to idle, right before it dies, is there a bunch of black smoke coming from the tail pipe? If so, you are way to rich. If not, you might be too lean, or no gas is getting in. Will it idle if you manually work the throttle? If so, check for a vacuum leak. This is often the cause of poor idle quality.
Check for vacuum leaks first.
Check for vacuum leaks first.
06-26-2011, 08:37 PM
#3
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: GA
Posts: 261
To get the car to run I have to adjust the idle screw to where that car is running at over 1000 rpms, any attempt to turn the idle down results in the engine immediately shutting down.
The carburetor is in proper adjustment...it did shoot out some black smoke before I took it off to be rebuilt and readjusted but once I got it back the smoke stopped.
The intake gaskets were bad...I could spray some ether at the base of the runners and the engine would stop. Now that I have replaced them ether no longer affects engine.
The vacuum line and pc valve are fine...I can put my hand over the opening on the valve covers and it will pull suction.
This is beyond anything I have ever faced. The things that I have replaced were in need of it, which is what is so confusing...I have fixed things that needed fixing but it has not changed anything.
The carburetor is in proper adjustment...it did shoot out some black smoke before I took it off to be rebuilt and readjusted but once I got it back the smoke stopped.
The intake gaskets were bad...I could spray some ether at the base of the runners and the engine would stop. Now that I have replaced them ether no longer affects engine.
The vacuum line and pc valve are fine...I can put my hand over the opening on the valve covers and it will pull suction.
This is beyond anything I have ever faced. The things that I have replaced were in need of it, which is what is so confusing...I have fixed things that needed fixing but it has not changed anything.
06-26-2011, 09:07 PM
#4
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 429
The basics are you need fuel, air and spark for an engine to run. Obviously you know this. You know you have air, you know you have fuel since it will run over 1000 rpms. That leaves spark. Are you certain you are not one tooth off on the distributor-cam gear interface? I tried to get my motor to idle and it wouldn't. Turns out I was one tooth off.
I understand you have done everything you can think of to do. That does not change the fact that you may need to go back to square one. Find TDC and go from there checking everything again. Don't skip anything assuming you did it right the first time. This is not fun to do, but if you attack the problem methodically, you will eliminate everything and expose the problem.
Also, you might want to confirm that your float level is correct. When you turn the idle screw, are you referring to the screw that moves the butterfly, or the idle circuit screw? Basically, you need to confirm that fuel is moving through the idle circuit.
I understand you have done everything you can think of to do. That does not change the fact that you may need to go back to square one. Find TDC and go from there checking everything again. Don't skip anything assuming you did it right the first time. This is not fun to do, but if you attack the problem methodically, you will eliminate everything and expose the problem.
Also, you might want to confirm that your float level is correct. When you turn the idle screw, are you referring to the screw that moves the butterfly, or the idle circuit screw? Basically, you need to confirm that fuel is moving through the idle circuit.
06-26-2011, 09:43 PM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: GA
Posts: 261
The idle screw that I am referring to the screw that moves the butterfly and that floats are actually in the right spot (I thought that they may be the source of some problems but they were not).
The distributor-cam gear interface may be off and I will have to check.
To give some back story to the issue at hand, the car sat up for three weeks and the problems began once I tried to start the car...a month later and I am still having problems. The car ran like it was supposed to before setting up but now it is nothing but trouble.
The distributor-cam gear interface may be off and I will have to check.
To give some back story to the issue at hand, the car sat up for three weeks and the problems began once I tried to start the car...a month later and I am still having problems. The car ran like it was supposed to before setting up but now it is nothing but trouble.
06-27-2011, 08:01 AM
#7
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 429
My car sat still in the body shop for a year. Last week, my body guy called and said the car would not start. I delivered the car to him with about an 1/8 tank of gas, knowing it would be sitting for a while. I got 5 gallons of new gas and mixed it in. I then ran the primer test (I've got a 95 EFI motor in my car) about 10 times which brought the new gas up to the fuel rail. It started instantly.
While a year is a lot longer than a month, and since you've tried everything else, how about some new gas? This ethanol is causing problems for some people, and others none at all. Anyway, it is a variable you have not addressed yet.
You're idle circuit could be gummed up and therefore not delivering gas.
While a year is a lot longer than a month, and since you've tried everything else, how about some new gas? This ethanol is causing problems for some people, and others none at all. Anyway, it is a variable you have not addressed yet.
You're idle circuit could be gummed up and therefore not delivering gas.
06-28-2011, 10:57 PM
#8
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: GA
Posts: 261
The timing is set at 10...though to be sure I did double check it and it was were it was supposed to be.
New gas was the first thing my carb guy before I did anything else...much to my dismay, it made no difference.
I'm starting to think that either the solenoid is going out or the new ignition control module is faulty. I have checked and rechecked the wiring on it to make sure it correct and found nothing wrong...unfortunately the only basis I have for this is the process of elimination.
Even in this hot weather I miss driving my car. I am starting to get a little discouraged because my father and I have replaced so many things that were legitimately in need of repair and has not changed anything. I am sorry if I am being a little difficult with this, I truly do appreciate you guys trying to help me out.
New gas was the first thing my carb guy before I did anything else...much to my dismay, it made no difference.
I'm starting to think that either the solenoid is going out or the new ignition control module is faulty. I have checked and rechecked the wiring on it to make sure it correct and found nothing wrong...unfortunately the only basis I have for this is the process of elimination.
Even in this hot weather I miss driving my car. I am starting to get a little discouraged because my father and I have replaced so many things that were legitimately in need of repair and has not changed anything. I am sorry if I am being a little difficult with this, I truly do appreciate you guys trying to help me out.
06-29-2011, 12:07 AM
#9
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Colorado
Posts: 3,946
What carb are you running? It almost sounds like a problem with the idle circuit in the carb. What ignition are you running? You said you changed the module in the distributor so I am confused as to what you are running.
06-29-2011, 04:14 AM
#10
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cork, Ireland
Posts: 6,417
can you explain what you mean with: doesn't idle?
if that means you can start it with gas, rev it. but even when you keep it like that and engine is warm it dies when you lower the rpm below a certain point
if that's the case then you have a vacuum leak. roughly at what rpm does it still idle?
make sure you have ALL ports on carburetor blocked. check the same or the intake manifold. for example the edelbrock perfromer rpm has a hidden hole at the back of intake in the part that rises up to the carb. if you can't find anythiong remove alll hoses from the carb (going to brake servo, gearbox etc) and close them all up. see if that makes a difference (just for a test, don't drive like that)
if that means you can start it with gas, rev it. but even when you keep it like that and engine is warm it dies when you lower the rpm below a certain point
if that's the case then you have a vacuum leak. roughly at what rpm does it still idle?
make sure you have ALL ports on carburetor blocked. check the same or the intake manifold. for example the edelbrock perfromer rpm has a hidden hole at the back of intake in the part that rises up to the carb. if you can't find anythiong remove alll hoses from the carb (going to brake servo, gearbox etc) and close them all up. see if that makes a difference (just for a test, don't drive like that)