new to this. clutch issues. please help!!!
06-26-2011, 10:31 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: il
Posts: 33
new to this. clutch issues. please help!!!
hello everyone. i just recently aquired a 65 mustang convertable, 289 4bbl with what im thinking.. toploader 4speed. 4speed for sure. the car is complete.. but a complete rust bucket!! its been sitting in a field with a tarp over it for 17 years!!... ive been feverishly working on it to make it 'road worthy' without spending much$$... hell to pay is what its been... its day 6 now and i got the engine running after just a few cranks and alot of parts later. ive been very busy replacing steel brake lines.. and a few rubber ones thus far.. but after i got it running i went to put it in gear and nothing.. wont go. i pressed the clutch down.. but its like i didnt. reverse grinds really bad... no synchro in reverse? the clutch pedal pushes all the way down with good pressure behind it. and when i try to engage another gear the car wants to lurch forward (with clutch depressed)...but wont go into gear. if the engine is not running it will go into every gear no problem... anyone have an idea??? i was so close to driving it!!! thanks! 
06-26-2011, 10:43 PM
#2
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 5,896
Could need a pilot bushing/bearing. Or could be that the flywheel is super corroded and is trying to grab the clutch disc. Or it could even be that the clutch linkage just needs to be adjusted a little bit.
06-27-2011, 08:05 AM
#4
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 429
Agree on the linkage adjust.
After 17 years, the clutch disc could be stuck to the flywheel. That happened to my Dad's 1938 Ford Pickup. Had to pull the trans and replace the clutch. Surprisingly, the flywheel did not need refacing.
After 17 years, the clutch disc could be stuck to the flywheel. That happened to my Dad's 1938 Ford Pickup. Had to pull the trans and replace the clutch. Surprisingly, the flywheel did not need refacing.
06-27-2011, 11:19 AM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location:
Posts: 281
wow dude i'm in the same exact situation right now haha. same except my car is a 68 and it was given to me for free if i could get it running after sitting so long. i did in a matter of hours and drove it home, with leaky brake lines, miraculously. car burned so much oil im surprised i wasnt pulled over. wouldnt come out of second gear either. im finishing it up this week or next, but its gonna be my kicker car so i dont care how bad a shape its in, so long as it is road worthy. i pulled the oil pan and found pieces of piston skirts, so idk how long the motor will last. i'll just take it easy until i get time to pull the motor one day. thing is, i have pistons and such to rebuild it, just no time.
06-27-2011, 11:30 AM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: il
Posts: 33
how do i adjust the clutch? anyway pry the clutch from the flywheel? is there an inspection plate on the bottom? its actually my brothers mustang. im trying to get it going for him.. hes not going to pay me back for parts/labor so i didn't want to spend much. already 400$ in. tune up, gas tank, hoses n belts.. this that n the other. removing the trans is a bit above me im afraid... could do it.. but with no lift im wondering if its worth my time.
06-27-2011, 03:44 PM
#7
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 429
Do this at your own risk. Try to get it in 3rd or 4th gear with the car off. Then, with the clutch to the floor, give the starter a quick hit. What this is doing is using the starter to try to break the clutch disc free. With the car in gear, and not moving, the trans input shaft cannot move and the clutch disc is attached to that. The starter is attempting to spin the flywheel and pressure plate. Hopefully if you "shock" the flywheel/disc interface, the two will break free from one another.
Make sure the wheels are chocked because the car will try to move when you engage the starter.
Remember, this is dangerous, but it is a final "try" before going the new clutch route.
One thing to think about. This method could fracture the disc, thus necessitating a new clutch, so again, use this at your own risk and be aware that this is an extreme attempt.
Make sure the wheels are chocked because the car will try to move when you engage the starter.
Remember, this is dangerous, but it is a final "try" before going the new clutch route.
One thing to think about. This method could fracture the disc, thus necessitating a new clutch, so again, use this at your own risk and be aware that this is an extreme attempt.
06-27-2011, 09:18 PM
#8
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: il
Posts: 33
hmmmm i did actually try that.. but 1st and reverse.. and i had the clutch pedal to the floor.. i also confirmed that the 'fork' is moving with the clutch. il try 4th gear next time... should i hold the brakes or block it or what? and clutch pedal up or down? thanks guys!!
06-27-2011, 09:36 PM
#9
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: 1984
Posts: 1,188
When I ran into this problem I put the rear axle on jackstands, started the car with the tranny in gear and the clutch pedal depressed. Once the rear wheels were spinning pretty good, and with the clutch pedal still depressed, I hit the brakes and the clutch disc came free.
06-28-2011, 07:54 AM
#10
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 429
The reason I suggested 3rd or 4th is that in those gears, there is less of a torque multiplier, so your car won't move as much.
If you tried this already, then I don't know what else to suggest. Oxnard's method will apply more force to the disc, but it is also more dangerous to perform. Again, don't try this at home kids!
If you tried this already, then I don't know what else to suggest. Oxnard's method will apply more force to the disc, but it is also more dangerous to perform. Again, don't try this at home kids!