Dats1NiceMustang

Ok guys as in my last post I bought a 67 mustang thats has been customized a lot...I was told that my t5 is a world edition out of a 1992 gt, it has a hydraulic clutch. The motor is a 1972-1973 351 windsor...I believe the rear end is factory (not sure)..With that out of the way my problem is the rear seal in the transmission tail shaft keeps leaking...I replaced the seal and it still leaks..I took the the drive shaft out and measured from the seal to the rear end and the measurement was 52 5/8...The guy at the drive shaft place measured the drive shaft for me and says it is an inch to two inch too short...He says the drive shaft being too short is what is causing my problem because it will not push up in the tail shaft enough around the tail shaft bearing..What do you guys think? Does anyone have this setup? Also could it just be the seal inside the shaft is just be bad? Thanks for all your help. oh yeah more question (sorry) my transmission is grinding going into 2nd and reverse but I can ease it in gear and it will not grind I take it this is the synchronizer going bad right?

urban_cowboy

An manual transmission swap almost always facilitates a drive shaft change or cut down. I had to do that when I went from a stock toploader to a performance aftermarket toploader. I would guess the previous owner or the shop who did the swap cut the drive shaft incorrectly based on what you are saying.

And yes it sounds like your synchro is bad on 2nd gear. Does it do it more going from 1st to 2nd or from 3rd to 2nd?

Gun Jam

If the Drive shaft (DS) was so short that it did not reach the tail shaft bushing I would think the DS and or yoke would instantly grenade and take the tail shaft and housing with it as soon as it was subjected to any load.

BUT

As Urban Cowboy said the DS is almost always the wrong length. and I suspect the tail shaft seal is leaking because the yoke is worn out AND because the tail shaft bushing is worn out.

So

I highly recommend getting a whole new custom DS and yoke from Dennys drive shaft online. this will probably cost about 300.

To buy a new yoke, new u joints, cut the DS, balance the DS is going to to cost about 200+

If you think you can save a 100 bucks by ****ing around with the old DS feel free to make the same mistake I did.


Sounds like the syncro is also bad and I bet the slider dogs are worn down too.. That means master rebuild kit + 1st gear, 2nd gear and 1/2/reverse slider. If you do the work yourself this is indeed a good project to take on and will save you money
-Gun

Dats1NiceMustang

Well the drive shaft place said they would replace the joints, balance and cut the driveshaft and make it longer for 150...I wouldn't even know where to start on rebuilding transmission sounds like a job for a trans shop..also it doesn't grind coming from 3rd to 2nd mainly going from 1st to 2nd...thanks guys

Gun Jam

That sounds about right so 150 + 75 for new slipyoke = 225.

The way I see it for about a 100 more you could actually add 300 in value to your car by having a nice 3 inch aluminum DS that is all new and balanced to 10,000 rpm, is lighter and will run smoother or you could throw 225 at that old pos and end up with an old pos that is 3" longer and has a new slipyoke that may or may not be old style with the small weaker u-joints (I dont know what ujoints your year of car used)

Rebuilding the trans isnt that though but it isnt that easy either there are manuals online that show how to do it. If you are going to have someone do it...it maybe be more cost effective to just buy a new one.