importsmasher

I am gathering parts to swap in an 89 5.0/T5 into my wife's 66 6 cylinder coupe. I have the engine, flywheel and trans, as well as a bellhousing, 9-inch rear, and all the major components I need like a Granada disc brake conversion (I haven't bought a clutch yet). The bell housing is from a 60s Cougar, and will use the 66 clutch linkage. I know I will need an adapter to attach the T5 to this bellhousing. My question is in regard to the flywheel/clutch/starter. Can I use the 1989 flywheel and clutch with this bellhousing, or are there any compatibility issues? Presumably, I would use the 66 starter setup, but would this work with the later flywheel (# of teeth, diameter, etc.)? I would like to go this way, rather than using an 89 bellhousing and converting to a cable clutch, but I will if there are going to be headaches with the earlier housing.

I just figured I would ask the questions before I go an buy a clutch and a trans adapter, etc. then find out I can't use them...

Any help is appreciated!
Importsmasher

rtintwo

You will need to use the 89 flywheel because of the 53oz balance the newer 5.0 needs.

Have you considered a hydrulic clutch. Sticking with the 60's Z-bar can make fitting some headers in a real pain on the drivers side. And some headers are impossible to fit with the stock Z-bar, so you are kind limiting or making a headache for yourself with the 60's linkage.

IMO you would be better off with the newer bellhousing, newer starter and a hydrolic clutch. This way any parts you need to buy for it will either be for an 89 or a 66.

1slow67

when using a late model block you have to have a z-bar adapter plate.

67t5ponycoupe

I would recommend running the T5 bellhousing, flywheel and starter. By using the T5 bellhousing you will not need the very pricey adapter for the trans. I like the stock equalizer bar set upfor the early cars. Like BA Mustang was saying you will need this to mount the ball stud for the equalizer bar. There is no provision for the ball stud on the 5.0 block. http://www.cjponyparts.com/EQUALIZER...-50L/p/CEBBE4/ You will also need a fulcrum block in the bell housing to use the 66 clutch fork. http://sitesearch.cjponyparts.com/se...ywords=fulcrum Most of your 6 cylinder stuff will not work on the new set up including the 6 cyklinder eqalizer so you will need the V8 equalizer and clutch fork. Hope that helps

importsmasher

Thanks for the replies! It sounds like I will be going with the later T5 bellhousing and starter. I know none of the 6 cylinder stuff will work (the car is an automatic at the moment...I have the correct brake and clutch pedals.). Anyone know how much a 68 bellhousing is worth (I will sell it since I won't be using it...)?

6T7T5ponycoupe, thanks for the links to the parts that will let me use a stock 66 z-bar. This brings up my next question. What clutch fork should I use? The stock fork for the T5 will be set up for a clutch cable, as opposed to a rod from the z bar. Will the 68 clutch fork I have fit the T5 bellhousing?

Are there kits to convert to a hydraulic clutch? Again, would the clutch fork be an issue?

I just want to make sure I get all the right parts so I only have to assemble it once.

Thanks again, all!
Importsmasher

1slow67

I would start the bellhousing off at $75 on ebay. I've seen them go for $100+ though, so it just depends.

2+2GT

The hydraulic clutch is a needless change. The stock linkage, especially if you use a Drake roller kit on the pedal bracket, is at least as easy and reliable as any hydraulic could hope to be.

Don't use Granada spindles. The steering arms are the wrong geometry, and limit stops are in the wrong place. Certain kits, with OEM 65-66 style brakes, include new spindles with correct geometry.

JMD

I used this "pull" slave on my 39, making a mount for this was easy and painless.

Super easy install using a pull throwout fork.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRE-829/

frdnut

+1....This is the best way to go in my opinion..We did a t-5 trans swap on my brothers 67 fastback using those parts and it worked out great...My brother also bought a new crossmember for the trans as well as a shifter that bolts to the T-5 and looks totally stock for his 67...

As for the clutch linkage the stock stuff works very well if its not all worn out..Most headers are designed for the stock linkage so I don't think there is any advantage to going to hydraulic or cable for that reason..You hear of lots of problems trying to get the cable routed through the header pipes or excess heat melting the cable so there can be problems with that setup as well..

rtintwo

A hydraulic clutch isnt necissary but it will save much cussing and headaches. It isnt that hard to install or very expensive and it will have a better feel(IMO). The reason to choose a hydro clutch is to give you the ability to run the hydro line out of the way of the exaust and for a softer feeling pedal(its your wifes car). This is a great write up that jamesw did for his hydro clutch install.

http://midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/HYD%20Clutch.htm