66 200ci Motocraft/Autolite 2100 Overheat and Dies in R/D
08-25-2011, 11:33 AM
#11
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cork, Ireland
Posts: 6,417
i'd say at least bad vacuum leak and/or timing too late.
as mentioned above it's either running too lean (not enough fuel), or the timing is so late its still burning when the exhaust valves are opening so to speak. However retarded timing usually causes the idle to drop down instead of increasing it.
you should definetly do the coolant test as above, maybe that explains the water leak. check the oil. what color is it? what color smoke does the engine produce
as for glowing pipes and high idle: check every hose/tube that is connected to the intake manifold or carburetor (if it's going to brake booster or automatic gearbox) i'd disconnect it for a test and block it on intake/carb side. so it cannot suck any air through there. once thats done restart the engine and see if that made a difference. if yes report back. if not with engine running spray wd40 or something like that around the intake and carb (not into the carb). but where intake gaskets and carburetor base gaskets are. if the engine idle changes while you do that investigate the spot you sprayed at. possible vacuum leak there
last but not least advance the timing a bit. best get a timing gun and set it to 6-8 degrees with vacuum disconnected and plugged with car in drive (once you get the idle down) ...
unfortunately it seems there's more than one thing off
as mentioned above it's either running too lean (not enough fuel), or the timing is so late its still burning when the exhaust valves are opening so to speak. However retarded timing usually causes the idle to drop down instead of increasing it.
you should definetly do the coolant test as above, maybe that explains the water leak. check the oil. what color is it? what color smoke does the engine produce
as for glowing pipes and high idle: check every hose/tube that is connected to the intake manifold or carburetor (if it's going to brake booster or automatic gearbox) i'd disconnect it for a test and block it on intake/carb side. so it cannot suck any air through there. once thats done restart the engine and see if that made a difference. if yes report back. if not with engine running spray wd40 or something like that around the intake and carb (not into the carb). but where intake gaskets and carburetor base gaskets are. if the engine idle changes while you do that investigate the spot you sprayed at. possible vacuum leak there
last but not least advance the timing a bit. best get a timing gun and set it to 6-8 degrees with vacuum disconnected and plugged with car in drive (once you get the idle down) ...
unfortunately it seems there's more than one thing off
08-25-2011, 01:43 PM
#12
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 43
Thanks i just wanted to make sure you were adjusting the curb idle screw and you are.
Im not familiar with that adapter plate but i dont see any holes for the two manifold studs the 1100 used. Am i missing them in the pic or did you have to drill your own holes for them? Im asking because i am wondering if you have a vacuum leak from your adapter plate.
Im not familiar with that adapter plate but i dont see any holes for the two manifold studs the 1100 used. Am i missing them in the pic or did you have to drill your own holes for them? Im asking because i am wondering if you have a vacuum leak from your adapter plate.
http://www.classicinlines.com/prodim...orinsertCL.jpg
08-25-2011, 01:46 PM
#13
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 43
i'd say at least bad vacuum leak and/or timing too late.
as mentioned above it's either running too lean (not enough fuel), or the timing is so late its still burning when the exhaust valves are opening so to speak. However retarded timing usually causes the idle to drop down instead of increasing it.
you should definetly do the coolant test as above, maybe that explains the water leak. check the oil. what color is it? what color smoke does the engine produce
as for glowing pipes and high idle: check every hose/tube that is connected to the intake manifold or carburetor (if it's going to brake booster or automatic gearbox) i'd disconnect it for a test and block it on intake/carb side. so it cannot suck any air through there. once thats done restart the engine and see if that made a difference. if yes report back. if not with engine running spray wd40 or something like that around the intake and carb (not into the carb). but where intake gaskets and carburetor base gaskets are. if the engine idle changes while you do that investigate the spot you sprayed at. possible vacuum leak there
last but not least advance the timing a bit. best get a timing gun and set it to 6-8 degrees with vacuum disconnected and plugged with car in drive (once you get the idle down) ...
unfortunately it seems there's more than one thing off
as mentioned above it's either running too lean (not enough fuel), or the timing is so late its still burning when the exhaust valves are opening so to speak. However retarded timing usually causes the idle to drop down instead of increasing it.
you should definetly do the coolant test as above, maybe that explains the water leak. check the oil. what color is it? what color smoke does the engine produce
as for glowing pipes and high idle: check every hose/tube that is connected to the intake manifold or carburetor (if it's going to brake booster or automatic gearbox) i'd disconnect it for a test and block it on intake/carb side. so it cannot suck any air through there. once thats done restart the engine and see if that made a difference. if yes report back. if not with engine running spray wd40 or something like that around the intake and carb (not into the carb). but where intake gaskets and carburetor base gaskets are. if the engine idle changes while you do that investigate the spot you sprayed at. possible vacuum leak there
last but not least advance the timing a bit. best get a timing gun and set it to 6-8 degrees with vacuum disconnected and plugged with car in drive (once you get the idle down) ...
unfortunately it seems there's more than one thing off
Thanks again to all who have given input thus far. I will report back in a few hours.
08-25-2011, 09:17 PM
#15
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 43
Good news and bad news:
I adjusted the timing by turning the distributor until the idle raised significantly, then I adjusted the idle on the carburetor as low as I could. The car now has a beautiful purr and I can shift into reverse and drive no problem.
Now for the bad news:
While my rear driver's side wheel responds properly, the passenger side does not. It struggles to move and when it does it only moves while accelerating. Any thoughts?
Also, my pipe and manifold no longer turn red but the engine is still hotter than it should be.
I adjusted the timing by turning the distributor until the idle raised significantly, then I adjusted the idle on the carburetor as low as I could. The car now has a beautiful purr and I can shift into reverse and drive no problem.
Now for the bad news:
While my rear driver's side wheel responds properly, the passenger side does not. It struggles to move and when it does it only moves while accelerating. Any thoughts?
Also, my pipe and manifold no longer turn red but the engine is still hotter than it should be.
08-25-2011, 10:06 PM
#17
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 43
All seems to be well at the moment. Except:
The battery wont hold a charge and I'm still running a little hot.
I'm going to try and rewire the alternator, if it doesn't work I'll just replace the alternator.
Now I need to create some custom accelerator linkage for the modified carb setup. Hopefully there will be no more issues. Thank you all.
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