Cut Coils Today...Couldn't be more pleased with results
#11
So when you lift the car up, camber shifts away from your alignment setting. When you then lower the car, friction between the tire treads and the ground prevent them from reaching their normal lateral position - they grab faster than lateral force to push the tires into the normal ride height positions is developed. Which basically means that the car is actually being held 'up' as an indirect effect of tire friction at the ground.
With the S/A drop in place, the camber gain is greater, but the tendency to hold the car up upon lowering it may be stronger than with the OE suspension pickup points, the same as, or weaker.
This tendency would always be higher if stiffer than OE suspension bushings are in use.
Either steering the wheels or rolling the car a few feet allows the front tires to move into their proper lateral positions and the car ride height to return to its normal place. A little lateral sliding takes place as the tires roll.
Norm
#14
This is sort of related to camber gain because when the wheel camber shifts, the ground contact points move laterally (in front view, if you think in terms of the wheel sort of pivoting about the lower ball joints you'll be on the right track if not entirely correct geometrically).
So when you lift the car up, camber shifts away from your alignment setting. When you then lower the car, friction between the tire treads and the ground prevent them from reaching their normal lateral position - they grab faster than lateral force to push the tires into the normal ride height positions is developed. Which basically means that the car is actually being held 'up' as an indirect effect of tire friction at the ground.
With the S/A drop in place, the camber gain is greater, but the tendency to hold the car up upon lowering it may be stronger than with the OE suspension pickup points, the same as, or weaker.
This tendency would always be higher if stiffer than OE suspension bushings are in use.
Either steering the wheels or rolling the car a few feet allows the front tires to move into their proper lateral positions and the car ride height to return to its normal place. A little lateral sliding takes place as the tires roll.
Norm
So when you lift the car up, camber shifts away from your alignment setting. When you then lower the car, friction between the tire treads and the ground prevent them from reaching their normal lateral position - they grab faster than lateral force to push the tires into the normal ride height positions is developed. Which basically means that the car is actually being held 'up' as an indirect effect of tire friction at the ground.
With the S/A drop in place, the camber gain is greater, but the tendency to hold the car up upon lowering it may be stronger than with the OE suspension pickup points, the same as, or weaker.
This tendency would always be higher if stiffer than OE suspension bushings are in use.
Either steering the wheels or rolling the car a few feet allows the front tires to move into their proper lateral positions and the car ride height to return to its normal place. A little lateral sliding takes place as the tires roll.
Norm
that'd explain it. It's just a killer trying to align it all.
but back to the OP: ya, I like that as well :-)
#15
I didnt cut them myself because i dont have those types of tools (yet). Took it to a guy who took all of 45 seconds with a cutting wheel i believe. i asked him not to torch them. But yeah, he made a nice cut
#17
What size tires do you run in the back? I have 235s and they rub sometimes when the gas tank is full (22gallon tank). I have adjustable so I have to let out some spring, but it sits too high for me in the back.
Your ride sites perfect btw, good job!
James
Your ride sites perfect btw, good job!
James
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