EZFEED

Thanks so much!!!!!!! I'll probably be hitting y'all up for advice as soon as it's time!

My cars body is 98% done. I have a new deck lid, rear valence, assembled the fenders, hood, and front, and currently am painting the interior. I pretty much encased everything in POR-15. All that cowl area and inside the cowl after I fixed it with new panels are coated. The underside of the dash, frame rails, etc are all POR-15.

I ran a piece of string inside the windsheild header with a chunk of foam then poured a little of it in there and drug it back and forth to coat inside that as well as the pillars. Got it squared away now though.

I need a new compressor anyway so I will check my guns and larger pneumatic tools and do like you said by figuring 50% over their CFM requirement.

JMD

I should have said 50% over the your single most air hungry tool... not all tools together...

chris66dad

We used 2 air compressors (110volts and 7cfm @ 50psi) on DIFFERENT electrical circuits to get the 10 CFM of air volume the spray gun needed. The compressor regulators were set to 90psi and they were T'eed into the air dryer with 25 foot hoses which helped cool the air and allow the water to condense.

The air dryer regulator was set to 50 PSI (wall pressure). The gun was set for about 10psi at the nozzle. We never ran out of air pressure even on long shoots.

chris66dad

I shot base coat clear coat on the 66 myself. It turned out nice. I would not recommend shooting metallic for your first paint job.
Pictures and info from our build website:
http://chris66dad.tripod.com/id24.html
http://chris66dad.tripod.com/id22.html
http://chris66dad.tripod.com/id23.html

Hope this helps you. You can do it if you have the time, a place to do it and if you really want to.

EZFEED

Neat! Gorgeous car!
Let me ask you this, can I shoot it all put together? I just got all my panels aligned and bolted in. All the inside stuff is POR-15 coated and either rubbercoated or dusted with primer to take paint.

I see you had everything disassembled when you shot it, that's why I'm asking.

rmodel65

if youre shooting it metallic you want to shoot it put together so the metallic matches from panel to panel...you can paint the insides of your fenders then mask them off to protect them from overspray when you spray the exterior of the car

EZFEED

Well what I did was use blue tape and paper to mask off the fender aprons and engine compartment, the trunk, inner doors, etc. I planned to leave the hood and trunk open and dust their undersides and sills. I have all the weatherstrippings, seals, and bumpers off so I can get in those areas. Figured I'd use those areas to practice a little and adjust the gun then after two or three coats of base and dry time, close them and start shooitng the body.

Do you shoot clear in the rain gutters, sills, and those areas (weatherstripping areas)?

chris66dad

I painted it apart because I was changing colors and wanted to get the doors, hoods and door jams completely. If you have it assembled there are tricks to painting and getting coverage but for me it was easier apart.

I shot 4 coats of clear on all surfaces to give me room to wet sand and maintain the minimum mill thickness of the clear.

It is very important to get the gun set properly. That is one of the biggest factors in making or breaking the paint job. Take your time and dont start until it is perfect.

JMD

I have painted jambs with cars apart, with doors on, doors off, jambs first, jambs at the same time, and jambs last.

I have come to the point where I like to paint the car and then do the jambs the next day. IMO it is just easier this way, and I am not crazy about leaving doors, hood and trunks open in the paint process because these areas tend to hold dirt (no matter how well you clean) that ends up on the paint surface outside the jambs.

You don't need to clear the jambs, (not much UV light here) but only a few colors look "ok" without a clear. On a Mustang, I would clear the jambs, in the door area anyway.

mr_velocity

Really? The DBC base I used is not durable without clear. How can you do only one stage of a 2 stage job? Or are certain bases different?

For the OP, like your choice in red. We ended up with Caddy XLR red, although you can buy is BC/CC we ended up shooting the 3 stage system because of the color depth. Don't let the paint scare you, this was our first paint job, just buy a great gun (yes even a rookie can tell the difference) and remember you can always "do over".
https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...edstang-4.html