65 Fastback 2+2 value
10-18-2011, 06:02 AM
#1
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Lebanon, PA
Posts: 65
65 Fastback 2+2 value
Guys I am planning on buying this car for my wife, as she is in love with these fastbacks. I just want to see what you think the value of this car is compared to what I am paying for it. If you could give an IDEA of what you might pay for or think it might be worth. The engine compartment is going to be the first project of the winter, as it needs a good clean up.
Is $12,000 a good deal for this car?
Is $12,000 a good deal for this car?
10-18-2011, 06:10 AM
#2
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cork, Ireland
Posts: 6,417
check the VIN, it might be 6cylinder that was converted to V8.
If it was originally a V8 this is a good deal if it's not rotten. If it was not then the wheels etc are already converted to V8 style (5lug). my first guess would be it always was a V8.
it seems to be an earlier model (it seems to be a nice original specimen). best thing to do is to get the VIN and post it here (at least the first 6 digits). even better would be all details from door data tag (and see if it matches the VIN).
The VIN is on driver side inner fender close to shock tower). right at the top where the hood would sit.
or check yourselves:
http://www.mustangdecoder.com/decoder.html
if the car is local check:
the cowl (pour bucketloads of water down the vent ion front of windshield). See if it comes out at the fenders or if it comes out the inside of car).
- check floorboards
- check framerails
- check framerail in trunk (lift carpet)
if you buy the car the first thing I'd do is check on the brakes and replace that single master cylinder with a dual master (and add disc brakes to the front)
You can get conversion kits at discbrakeswap (ask for Dennis)
once it brakes and steers properly sort whatever else you might need
as said if the car is good, the price is right. I've seen people pay more for less. Shells already go for around 8000$ in the states from what I can see
If it was originally a V8 this is a good deal if it's not rotten. If it was not then the wheels etc are already converted to V8 style (5lug). my first guess would be it always was a V8.
it seems to be an earlier model (it seems to be a nice original specimen). best thing to do is to get the VIN and post it here (at least the first 6 digits). even better would be all details from door data tag (and see if it matches the VIN).
The VIN is on driver side inner fender close to shock tower). right at the top where the hood would sit.
or check yourselves:
http://www.mustangdecoder.com/decoder.html
if the car is local check:
the cowl (pour bucketloads of water down the vent ion front of windshield). See if it comes out at the fenders or if it comes out the inside of car).
- check floorboards
- check framerails
- check framerail in trunk (lift carpet)
if you buy the car the first thing I'd do is check on the brakes and replace that single master cylinder with a dual master (and add disc brakes to the front)
You can get conversion kits at discbrakeswap (ask for Dennis)
once it brakes and steers properly sort whatever else you might need
as said if the car is good, the price is right. I've seen people pay more for less. Shells already go for around 8000$ in the states from what I can see
Last edited by kalli; 10-18-2011 at 06:17 AM.
10-18-2011, 06:21 AM
#3
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Lebanon, PA
Posts: 65
I have checked the vin and it is an original 289 2V car. The underside and body are very solid with barely any rust. The only visible rust on the car is a bubble on the passenger side door. I am planning on replacing all the suspension components over the winter also. I was also looking at front disc swaps also. The car is being inspected this week and will be getting new rear brakes. From other fastback for sale in the area this seems to be pretty good buy I thought.
10-18-2011, 09:15 AM
#5
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 710
If the inside of the trunk above the rear spring shackle mount looks good and has not been covered in some magic rust hiding goo, and the rear frame where the spring shackle mounts is not swollen and rusty I would call 12K good, if those areas are rusty I would negotiate a bit.
Also, slide your hand up the inside of the rear quarter panels and see if you can feel an overlapping seam up high where they have been changed, many times its on the top horizontal section half way between the trunk lid and the outside of the car. If those are original quarters I would feel good about 12k.
Good luck!
Also, slide your hand up the inside of the rear quarter panels and see if you can feel an overlapping seam up high where they have been changed, many times its on the top horizontal section half way between the trunk lid and the outside of the car. If those are original quarters I would feel good about 12k.
Good luck!
10-18-2011, 07:58 PM
#7
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Lebanon, PA
Posts: 65
nope there really isn't much rust on the car at all. The engine compartment looks worse then it actually is. It really just needs a good cleaning and it won't look as bad. I am probably gonna do a quick touch up on the motor over the winter just to make it look nicer for next summer. Next winter I will probably pull the motor and have it rebuilt.
