eZ

So im looking at stroker kits to replace mine. I dont care what anybody says the pin in the piston was definatley letting some oil get by. I hear probe has a piston for a 347 that fixes this? I want to find a kit that has a forged crank and H beam rods. I understang I dont need forged but its cheap insurance. If the crank I have now were forged it would be rebuildable. So if you guys can help me find a good deal somewhere that would be great.

On another note my block which is .30 one of the cylinder got scortched. Anything bad against sleeving one of the bores. instead of making them all .40 over?

jojobanks

mustangs unlimited has some good looking scat setups. All forged but with I-beam rods instead of h-beams. These setups advertise .030 bore already, but it shouldn't be too hard to get a different width piston since you're going to change your bore size anyway.

I would go with sleeves instead of boring it more. any more than .030 over and you're rolling the dice with your wall thickness IMO.

eZ

yea i would only be sleeving one cylinder. The motor only has about 4k miles on it so the other cyl are perfect.

jojobanks

whatever works. are you planning on keeping the bad cyl at .030 over or are you going to put an off-size piston in it?

Edit: I'm not suggesting that you do this AT ALL, it's just my understanding that you can't really machine the cyl much past .030 due to wall thickness. So is your plan to try to take it to .040 and put a .010 sleeve in? Because that's a really thin sleeve. I don't know THAT much about machining blocks and adding sleeves so pardon me if my knowledge is mistaken.

PaulS

Sleeving a cylinder is done by machining most or all of the existing cylinder out and replacing it with a pressed in cylinder. The new cylinder is then bored to a size that matches the other cylinders in the engine.
I have seen sleeved engines with one cylinder replaced and I have seen a V-8 with eight sleeves for all-out racing.

Paul

Iskwezm

Sure you can, my block now is .040 over and my last 289 was .060 over.

Starfury

You can do it, it's just not recommended due to potential core shift problems with the castings. Pushing it to .060 can put the cylinder walls dangerously close to the water jackets, if the core is shifted even a little bit.

frdnut

I don't think core shift is much of a problem with the windsor style small blocks....Clevelands and FE series engines are much more prone to those problems..

frdnut

How do you know that the rings intersecting the pin was letting oil by?....If assembled correctly there is no issue with this....Also not sure what you are saying about the crank?...Stock windsor cranks are cast and they are rebuildable so far as turning them down...I had the scat crank in my 408 turned down .020 and also had the oil seal journal built up..It is not forged steel either..

eZ

When I pulled the pistons you could see oil past the oil ring. Also the pistons had lots of evidence of burning oil on the piston. Which also explains the blue smoke I would see from time to time. If I sleeve the one cylinder I can reuse my pistons which would save me $500. Im sure the first shortblock was put together like crap seeing now evidence of miss matched rods and how the machining was done. They actually machined down the female portion of where the bolts go. made it very thin. Surprised I didnt break a rod.

As of right now I think Ill sleeve the one cylinder and buy an internally balanced forged crank and rods from eagle. Let a pro put the shortblock together and hopefully not worry about it burning oil this time. maybe total seal rings?