Hydraulic lifter/non adjust rocker
#1
Hydraulic lifter/non adjust rocker
So, I have Hydrahulic lifters, what appears non adjusting studs. So, I have some tappet lash noise on a couple rockers.
Now, if I am correct, all I can do here is when engine off, tighten and torque to spec and that's it.
So, if that is true, what is the reason for a couple sounding loud? Is it a bad lifter?
Aso, the oil gauge on the 69 is way past lof on off and about 1/4" to the right of low when running. I believe it's good as it's a long travel once turned on. I believe oil pressure is not the issue as all others are quiet drivers side is very quiet. Could it be a bad lifter if all are tightened down?
Is there another way to tighten these?
Now, if I am correct, all I can do here is when engine off, tighten and torque to spec and that's it.
So, if that is true, what is the reason for a couple sounding loud? Is it a bad lifter?
Aso, the oil gauge on the 69 is way past lof on off and about 1/4" to the right of low when running. I believe it's good as it's a long travel once turned on. I believe oil pressure is not the issue as all others are quiet drivers side is very quiet. Could it be a bad lifter if all are tightened down?
Is there another way to tighten these?
#2
It could be a bad lifter...It could also be a rocker stud pulling out or your camshaft lobes wearing flat..You can check the studs by putting a straight edge across the top of them and looking for any high ones....Also check your pushrods ends and rocker arms for signs of wear as well..Basically anything that could be causing excess clearance in the system..
#4
If he has the non adjustable rocker studs they have a shoulder that only allows you to tighten the nut so far..You just torque the nut down and that is it...I believe there are pushrods in slightly longer or shorter lengths to allow for variances after machine work has been done..
#5
the ones in your picture are stud mounted and they are adjustable.
they are NOT! tightened to torque. if you do that the valves will never close
you can adjust them with engine running. just make sure to stick cardboard to the side so the oil doesn't splash out to the side of the exhaust. cardboard a few inches high half way around the exhaust side.
then you slowly!!!! loosen the first nut until you hear a ticking noise from that one. slowly! tighten it up until the ticking just stops. then slowly! tighten it another half turn (two slow quarter turns)
same with all the others.
if some of them are already loose then you will have it a bit harder to figure when the ticking starts or if you loosen a ticking one it will not start ticking. So if you loosened a rocker by more than 1 turn and it didn't start ticking it might already be too loose.
edit: looking at the picture it already looks like you ran the engine without cardboards holding in the oil :-)
they are NOT! tightened to torque. if you do that the valves will never close
you can adjust them with engine running. just make sure to stick cardboard to the side so the oil doesn't splash out to the side of the exhaust. cardboard a few inches high half way around the exhaust side.
then you slowly!!!! loosen the first nut until you hear a ticking noise from that one. slowly! tighten it up until the ticking just stops. then slowly! tighten it another half turn (two slow quarter turns)
same with all the others.
if some of them are already loose then you will have it a bit harder to figure when the ticking starts or if you loosen a ticking one it will not start ticking. So if you loosened a rocker by more than 1 turn and it didn't start ticking it might already be too loose.
edit: looking at the picture it already looks like you ran the engine without cardboards holding in the oil :-)
#6
#7
Here is an expert on the issue (comp cams). read the post and then decide:
http://www.compcams.com/Content/Stat...ookieSupport=1
http://www.compcams.com/Content/Stat...ookieSupport=1
#8
So, I will read that article right after this post. First, When I opened it up, they were torqued all the way. Second, there is no way to lock the nits as if if I adjusted, they would just back off with running. I could add a second nut and crank it against the adjusted one. I have over 2k miles on this one currently. I can adjust with the 1/4 turn but like I said, it will back off. If they are to be Torqued, and it's started after sitting, I believe it's loose and will slap and wear. If I am wrong, they are too tight and I have 2k worth of this operation. So, which side is it???????????
#9
Here is an expert on the issue (comp cams). read the post and then decide:
http://www.compcams.com/Content/Stat...ookieSupport=1
http://www.compcams.com/Content/Stat...ookieSupport=1
Positive Stop Stud
This type stud was used on 1969-76 302 and 351W engines, as well as 1968-72 429 engines with hydraulic cams. They do not allow for lifter adjustment and work only with smaller cams when the dimensions of the engine (block, head deck height, etc.) remain close to stock. They also don’t work on solid lifter cams.
#10
I know you have been dealing with this for awhile and you have probably already checked this but a small leak from a header gasket can sound like lifter noise. I know headers can be a pain to find leaks on the bottom side and behind hot pipes. That would be something i would double and tripple check before thinking about new push rods or worn cam.