Starting to get irritated
12-14-2011, 11:49 AM
#11
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location:
Posts: 28
You should have someone turn the car over while you feel the top of the relay. You will definitely feel the relay vibrating if that is the source of the sound. Your relay will chatter when it does not get the proper voltage or if it is not properly grounded ... the chatter is just the electromagnetic switch opening and closing real fast.
If that is not the source of the sound then unfortunately you probably have problems down under with the starter or flywheel and hopefully that is just the starter since that would be an easy fix.
If that is not the source of the sound then unfortunately you probably have problems down under with the starter or flywheel and hopefully that is just the starter since that would be an easy fix.
Last edited by midnightredmustang; 12-14-2011 at 11:52 AM.
12-15-2011, 11:39 AM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
IDK, hard to tell from the video, but to ME it sounds like the solenoid is jumping in and out.
I say make sure that the CABLES are good, and that the negative cable is grounded right at the block. Surely you have tried starting with jumper cables or a "Start" battery charger?
The flywheel can be checked by pulling the starter and inspecting the teeth as you turn the engine with the harmonic balancer bolt. (clockwise from the front, slowly so the compression leaks off, or more quickly by pulling the sparkplugs first.)
I say make sure that the CABLES are good, and that the negative cable is grounded right at the block. Surely you have tried starting with jumper cables or a "Start" battery charger?
The flywheel can be checked by pulling the starter and inspecting the teeth as you turn the engine with the harmonic balancer bolt. (clockwise from the front, slowly so the compression leaks off, or more quickly by pulling the sparkplugs first.)
12-16-2011, 12:07 AM
#14
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 208
Sorry guys I meant to post back on here yesterday. I did take that plate of and not a single one of the teeth from the flywheel was missing. I haven't been able to try to jump the car off as it is parked head on in the garage and my driveway is too steep to push the car back in without it's own power. I checked the grounds to the relay and they all looked fine and I used a wire brush to clean off anything just to be sure. I don't see how it could be the starter or relay since both were replaced last friday. But first thing in the morning I will be going to buy a battery and hopefully can get it to fire again.
12-16-2011, 12:41 AM
#16
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 208
I use my dad's volt meter. The battery checked 12 as early as last week, went to check it last night and it was 8.5 I think. Today read 7.9 volts. I really need to have it thoroughly checked through all wiring to clear it up. Know the shop I am going to take it to already was just hoping to get it started so I could drive it there instead of towing it.
12-16-2011, 12:46 AM
#17
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: East bay, CA
Posts: 687
I use my dad's volt meter. The battery checked 12 as early as last week, went to check it last night and it was 8.5 I think. Today read 7.9 volts. I really need to have it thoroughly checked through all wiring to clear it up. Know the shop I am going to take it to already was just hoping to get it started so I could drive it there instead of towing it.
You replied to my post earlier and my problem was a bad battery as well. I used my truck to jump my 67 and it fired right up.
Just hate spending blind money.
12-16-2011, 01:04 AM
#19
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: East bay, CA
Posts: 687
Load testing is the process of putting demand on a system or device and measuring its response. Load testing is performed to determine a system’s behavior under both normal and anticipated peak load conditions. It helps to identify the maximum operating capacity of an application as well as any bottlenecks and determine which element is causing degradation. When the load placed on the system is raised beyond normal usage patterns, in order to test the system's response at unusually high or peak loads, it is known as stress testing. The load is usually so great that error conditions are the expected result, although no clear boundary exists when an activity ceases to be a load test and becomes a stress test.
12-16-2011, 09:17 AM
#20
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: AR
Posts: 5,469
I can't say it enough, check ALL of the big cable connections for corrosion and looseness.
Lots of people skip this step because their cables "look just fine" but that doesn't mean ****. The cables sold today are often made with cheap impure copper, have poorly terminated ends, and are often more insulation than wire.
Do yourself a favor, give each end of each wire a "pull test" at the least, (pull while working the cable in a circular motion) to see if the ends are tight.
Very often a bad cable will cause a person to change a battery, then a solenoid, then a starter, then an alternator, and then if they haven't given up, they will get around to replacing the cables, and are then amazed that the cable that looked "new" was their problem all along....
Lots of people skip this step because their cables "look just fine" but that doesn't mean ****. The cables sold today are often made with cheap impure copper, have poorly terminated ends, and are often more insulation than wire.
Do yourself a favor, give each end of each wire a "pull test" at the least, (pull while working the cable in a circular motion) to see if the ends are tight.
Very often a bad cable will cause a person to change a battery, then a solenoid, then a starter, then an alternator, and then if they haven't given up, they will get around to replacing the cables, and are then amazed that the cable that looked "new" was their problem all along....