tylerdru

Well i picked up my manifold. I got this one: http://holley.com/products.asp?product=8011
Do you guys have any advice? I know i must be careful when disassembling the distributer. And i need to not rotate the engine! Is the only way to torque these bolts with a torque wrench or can i use a ratchet and a different tool to measure the torque? Does anyone know what mustangs unlimited will give me for a 2100d carburetor core? IM going to install my manifold next weekend because my dad is in peurto rico[:@] hes lucky!

And about the transmission. I was driving the pony around before i pulled it into the garage and when i stopped at a stop sign the transmission slipped. Is this a sign that my transmission is going to need to be rebuilt or can the gears slip for another reason?

6mustang6

I'd be easier to get a Torque wrench. They last forever and you'll need it alot.

nualln

Have you checked your tranny fluid? (assuming you have an automatic)

On my old jeep, the gears slipped and I started rolling back on a hill when I was in drive. Turned out I had a tranny fluid leak.

6mustang6

YEah, low fluid can do it. or your clutch bands are worn out.

tylerdru

well i did have leak in the transmission coolant line. So I did lose some transmission fluid. I added some more fluid, but maybe not enough. Ill add some more.

tylerdru

Clutch bands? are those easy to fix. do they require a pulling of the engine?

valley firearms

When installing the intake manifold, keep your eye on the front and rear gaskets. They tend to want to squirt out when tightening. My rear gasket came almost all the way out. I pushed it back in and tightened the two rear bolts a little more and it worked out perfect. The bigger gaskets(head to manifold) have slots to hold the front and rear gaskets in place but they never seemed to work for me. It is always good to put the gasket sealer on and let it get tacky before installing. Put an extra squirt of sealer on the corners where the front and rear gaskets meet the heads. Maybe someone else can add to this.

tylerdru

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/C-4-F...spagenameZWDVW

is it hard to rebuild the transmission. im pretty sure pulling the engine would be pretty easy.

stangsrdashit

When putting on your intake manifold do what valley firearms said and put sealer on the corners. This is a must. Be sure to tighten the bolts in the correct order, and don't completly tighten them one at a time, keep working them in the right order a little at a time until you get to the torque setting. Find out the the torque spec. for the aluminum manifold as it tends to be a few pounds less than the cast iron ones, and you would hate to crack it. Also, there is no need to pull the engine to drop the tranny. You could pull them out still coupled together but this requires an engine hoist, removing the radiator, most likely taking off the hood, etc. Just slide the drive shaft back, and drop the tranny down by itself. You will prob. need a transmission jack as automatic trannys are fairly heavy. The inside of autos is a maze of bearings and clutches etc. I would recommend just taking it to a transmission shop and letting them drop it and rebuild it. By the time you go throught the trouble of getting a jack and dropping it, it would work out close to even. There is a transmission shop in loganville that did mine. New torque convertor with a higher stall, shift kit, upgraded parts etc. for only 700 bucks.

tylerdru

10lb then 15lb 25 lb thats how you tighten them