retro77

I'm also looking for bolt on and low cost.

Specs:
390 FE [bored/stroked to 442cu]
Edelbrock intake and heads
Full roller setup
Powerjection III EFI
Hooker headers
3" Magnaflow S/S exhaist kit with electric cut outs
original 9" rear with unknown internals
QA-1 single adjustable shocks on all four corners
525lb front springs
rear 4 1/2 leaf
Global West tubular suspension up front with the 1" Shelby drop

Angliagasser

I put the Heidt's bolt-on four link in the rear of our 66 Mustang, I also put the heidt's front suspension in it. This thing handles like a slot car now.

andrewmp6

Best bolt in to me would be http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-...-pr-24491.html best bolt in rear http://www.rrs-online.com/3linkproducts.php or http://totalcontrolproducts.com/rpss_fd.html if you want weld in http://www.griggsracing.com/ is amazing but pricey or there is full frames you can put the car on.Full frame http://www.schwartzperformance.com/index.cfm and http://www.roadstershop.com/

eatmyjeep

http://youtu.be/Pq5LjV4lnV0 (3 link vs 4 triangulated link)

(The RRS 3 link looked great to me...? although a overpriced) also some strong opinions about it. http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24863

http://www.totalcostinvolved.com/***..._Arm_Rev02.pdf

(TCI 3 link seamed cheap overcomplicated to me .)

suicide67

Ok, i'm going to add to this as I have been doing research on this topic for about two years and came to this conclusion. I was going to go with RRS but then found GTS (Gateway Performance Suspension) they were the US dealer for RRs but when RRs couldn't deliver the product, They made there own with upgrades. I have called many, many , many, MANY shops dealers, installers, builders and GPS was the winner. Check it out, there website is poor but the service and quality is amazing. Call Autoworks International (and check out the website) that is the only rear set up they use, and they make some bad *** cars. It comes powercoated (unlike most) plus it comes with a 9" housing powercoated with all brackets welded on. Completely bolt on, with AFCO coilovers and watts link. It is expensive, but it is the real deal and its done

andrewmp6

The tci looks ok but i don't like how small the lower links are and it has a panhard bar i rather have a watts link over a panhard bar.

suicide67

Plus the TCI, is cheap as it is the base kit with ? shocks, They you have to paint or powercoat the whole unit

Coupe

I would call Jim at Fays and get his opinion. Unless you want to spend thousands of dollars that watts link works really well and has no bind. I would not do a panhard bar over a watts.

Norm Peterson

Arguably, a 3-link is best at separating the various tasks that a rear suspension needs to do, with a torque arm a close second. I can think of no stronger evidence than in SCCA's F Stock solo category, where the torque arm 3rd/4th gen F-bodies have been trounced by the S197 Mustangs the last 4 or 5 years. To the point where F Stock has been sarcastically referred to as "Ford Stock" by some (no joke).

Details matter, though, and it's not like the S197's version of the 3-link is as good as it might have been.

The AME video is enlightening, though it should be noted that AME's triangulated 4-link is significantly different from what's under Fox/SN95/NE Mustangs (and RWD GM A/G body cars, for that matter). AME's arrangement has a significantly lower geometric roll center and much less rear axle roll steer than either the Ford or GM production cars - both attributes being good things as far as corner-carving is concerned. If I absolutely had to run a tri-4-link, it would either be an AME product or look an awful lot like one. That said, I'd still assign more weight to the difference in slalom speed than skidpad lateral g and give the nod to the 3-link.

Yes, a Watts link is slightly superior to a PHB, at least once you're cornering really hard. A Fays is still on my wish list for my '08 GT. But since its available adjustments and any ride height change due to different springs both play into the roll steer thing I think you really need to consider a WL in conjunction with the rest to get the most out of it.

But it's not like a PHB is obsolete. I've driven an F-body and my Mustang at autocross, and both are easy to drive with no significant vices attributable to the PHB. Road course driving might find a little wider gap.


Norm