pimp2303

I am looking on CJ Pony Parts, and they have two different floor pans for the 70 Vert.

Which is better to get. I am looking to order these asap.


The P/N for the DynaCorn floor is 3648B
http://www.cjponyparts.com/dynacorn-...-1973/p/3648B/


and the other is p/n is FLP9k
http://www.cjponyparts.com/FULL-FLOO...-1973/p/FLP9K/

1slow67

I personally would order the dynacorn one, mainly because I have heard of the company before and they make a good number of mustangs parts.

2+2GT

Neither is correct, and would require modification to fit your 70. The crescent-shaped ridges at the rear are for the 64-65 brake cable, the shifter hole is too small for a 69-73 shifter, the reinforcing ribs are wrong for 69-70 and a disaster for 71-73. I must say, I'd distrust anyone who advertised a "65-73" floor. They are either ill-informed or dishonest.

There is only one floor that will work properly for your 69-70 car, and some of the ridges are not quite concours.

Glazier/Nolan calls the 69-70 floor G10820. It's specifically the "coupe/FB" floor, but a little trimming for the inner rocker and it's pretty good.

oldrock

I personally prefer replacing individual pans and leaving the center hump since those are usually in good shape but either way I'd suggest you pay a bit more and get the dynacorn metal. They are a well known company and I'd trust their products more than the no name stuff.

Coupe

Man, you are on the ball!

Take this guys advice.

pimp2303

I ended up getting the p/n fpk4 from cjponyparts. I decided since I need inner rockers, floor supports and torque boxes but my hump was in good shape just to order this kit. What are you thoughts on this kit.

here is the link.
http://www.cjponyparts.com/FLOOR-PAN...9-1970/p/FPK4/

2+2GT

I have seen a lotta work done by Glazier/Nolan, near here. They find that with all the extra welding needed along the hump with individual repair pans, verses using a single OE style floor, it actually ends up costing the customer less for the complete replacement floor, and you end up with a car that looks right even from underneath.

jojobanks

at the risk of hi-jacking a thread, isn't it harder to replace the whole floor pan as opposed to replacing it panel by panel? I ask this because I've heard that a lot of bracing is required if you're going to cut out the entire floor.

I ask because a couple of spots in my floor are pretty rough and I'm looking into replacing the whole floorpan myself.

2+2GT

Jack stands can to the job nicely. Replacing in sections requires far more welding than putting the new ones in with rose welds.

jojobanks

sounds pretty risky to me with a non-stripped car. Seems to me if you don't place the jackstands just right then the whole car would droop in. And since you're cutting out the whole floor, your jack placement points are limited.

Not saying it can't or shouldn't be done since I really don't know what I'm talking about, but in theory it just sounds sketchy. I'd love for someone to maybe explain it a little better to me, or link to a good thread of someone that went through the process and documented it well, since this is something I'm looking to do in the future.

edit: didn't see the pic before (darn slow internet). But I do notice that you did brace the sub frames. Are those permanent connectors or something you mocked up just for the floor replacement?