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Edelbrock Electric Choke Wiring

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Old 01-25-2012, 02:18 PM   #1
Fordication
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Default Edelbrock Electric Choke Wiring

Can anyone give a good location to where I should land these 2 wires. One is red and one is black. Where should I put them to enable the electric choke. Best conditions please.
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Old 01-25-2012, 03:28 PM   #2
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Black to a good ground, I often use an intake bolt or even the carb stud.

Red goes to a switched ignition source. You aren't supposed to use the coil wire, but I have done it in the past....

Ideally, the red should go back to the "ign" prong on the ignition switch. If you go to the ign switch you SHOULD fuse the circuit.
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Old 01-25-2012, 03:33 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordication View Post
Can anyone give a good location to where I should land these 2 wires. One is red and one is black. Where should I put them to enable the electric choke. Best conditions please.
It requires a switched 12v source. Best place to wire it to would be the ign switch.

edit: dangit... beat to the punch
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Old 01-25-2012, 04:00 PM   #4
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Ign switch on at the starter solenoid at under the dash?
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Old 01-25-2012, 04:27 PM   #5
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Ign switch on at the starter solenoid at under the dash?
either one
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Old 01-25-2012, 04:31 PM   #6
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Ign switch on at the starter solenoid at under the dash?
There are two small poles on the solenoid. One is power from the ignition switch, which is only hot when the ignition switch is in the start position. The other is a feedback which supplies 12v to the coil when the ignition switch is in the start position. When the switch is in the run position, it gets the feedback from the resistor wire, somewhere around 8 or 9v. I use this pole to power a relay which then supplies 12v directly from the battery. You can just buy a generic 12v relay from a parts store, which will come with a diagram. This setup gives me a switched 12v source under the hood for, electric chokes, ignition boxes, or distributors that require 12v.

Or, you can run a wire from the ignition switch under the dash.

On other forums, they recommend using the stator pole on the alternator for the electric choke. This is how Ford did it from the factory when they went to electric chokes. Unfortunately, the stator only supplies about 7v, which is fine if you have an Autolite carburetor that only expects that voltage, but aftermarket carburetors want a full 12v.
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Last edited by The_Dude; 01-25-2012 at 04:36 PM.
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Old 01-25-2012, 06:33 PM   #7
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Damn. Got the new spark plugs, wires and cap on and hooked up the carb with a lower spacer and got the wiring right. Went to start the car and it has been sitting so long that the battery is dead. I guess I will find out if it all works soon enough.
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Old 01-25-2012, 11:46 PM   #8
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Got the car running and it runs like crap. I guess its time to get help from a local mustang guy. Any of you live on the north side of Houston and know about about the 351C?
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:46 AM   #9
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What else did you change besides the carb?

Vacuum leaks?
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Old 01-26-2012, 12:36 PM   #10
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I installed a new edelbrock intake, new hoses all around the intake and carb, new fuel pump and filter, new spark plugs and wires. It started running like crap after I installed the intake and carb about a year ago. I have since been chasing anything I can to find out why. I did notice that the electric choke does not activate when I try to start the car nor does the lever move at all. Makes me wonder if the problem is the carb. I even used gasket sealer on the intake even though edlebrock did not recommend it. Oh and I have a 1/2" phenolic spacer under the carb.
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Old 01-26-2012, 12:44 PM   #11
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Quote:
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I installed a new edelbrock intake, new hoses all around the intake and carb, new fuel pump and filter, new spark plugs and wires. It started running like crap after I installed the intake and carb about a year ago. I have since been chasing anything I can to find out why. I did notice that the electric choke does not activate when I try to start the car nor does the lever move at all. Makes me wonder if the problem is the carb. I even used gasket sealer on the intake even though edlebrock did not recommend it. Oh and I have a 1/2" phenolic spacer under the carb.
is it possible you could have put too big of a bead of silicone on the gasket? If this is so it's possible that some squeezed into the intake chamber and is gunking things up. Unless you used the spray on stuff.

Did you torque the intake down correctly? are all the wires on right and timing set properly? Does the car start running better after it warms up?
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Old 01-26-2012, 01:00 PM   #12
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Got the car running and it runs like crap. I guess its time to get help from a local mustang guy. Any of you live on the north side of Houston and know about about the 351C?
Runs like crap as in how? Idle, acceleration, deceleration, under load..which? There are so many factors that can make something run like poo. Details please, which intake, which carb (what jets), how did you adjust your idle and fuel/air mixture, timing, etc, etc.

Could be why you're chasing your tail...?
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Old 01-26-2012, 09:00 PM   #13
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Ok, its a edlebrock performer intake, edlebrock 1406 600cfm carb, tayler thunder 8.2mm wires, petronix ignition with petronix flame coil, e3 spark plugs, holley mechanical fuel pump, ram air intake with and K&N filter. The thing is I have not run it out on the street. The idle is rough like its missing. When I put the timing light on it it moves about one mark +- on the degrees from where it should be so it acts like a vacuum leak. I have replaced all of the hoses and pulled each spark plug wire individually to check spark at the plug. I have plugged all hose nipples at the intake to verify its not a vacuum hose leak and it still acts like its missing. I am going to buy a vaccum gauge tomorrow and see what vaccum is and as for setting up the carb I screwed the airfuel screws out 1.75 turns from closed and have gone back and forth from 1.5 to 2.5 turns to try and get a better idle. I cannot do anything until I can get it to run at 850 RPM which it will not. Anything under 900 rpm and the car will die. Anyone with a carb I can borrow in the Houston area would sure be appreciated. I will only need it for one day to verify whether or not its the intake or the carb.
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Old 01-26-2012, 09:23 PM   #14
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I would bet $10 to your $5 that you have a vac leak, probably on the bottom of your manifold.

I have found, on Windsors, that unless the intake gasket is set just right they will leak, I want to imagine that Clevelands are about the same.

On most Chevys if the intake bolts clear the gasket they will seal up fine, not so on Fords, especially when using an aftermarket manifold and/or heads. The margins that the gasket rests on can be very thin.
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Old 01-27-2012, 11:40 AM   #15
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That is what I am thinking too. The solution may be to remove the intake and carb and put a new pan and seal on the intake but I really do not want to do that. I just got finished painting everything and dressing the engine up. I know I would for sure mess it all up taking it apart again. Damn. I wish there was some way to verify which one is the culprit without taking it apart and BTW, rubber gloves do not work for sheet to protect you when you are pulling plug wires with the car running. Damn near pissed myself.
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Old 01-27-2012, 12:28 PM   #16
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BTW, rubber gloves do not work for sheet to protect you when you are pulling plug wires with the car running. Damn near pissed myself.
I have been known to scream like a little girl when pulling plugs with a running engine.
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Old 01-27-2012, 09:01 PM   #17
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Oh I think we speak the same language on that issue. Little girl hell. I went full diva. Ok, the good news. One of the guys from another forum reccomended that I spray carb cleaner on all of the sealed areas and carb bottom and I found the leak. The port that would be used if you have a factory carb with a thermal choke tube is where the leak was. Every time I sprayed on it the engine revved up 2K+ rpm. So tomorrow I will pull and reseal it. Thanks for all of the help.
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Old 01-27-2012, 10:49 PM   #18
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Another tell for a vac leak is an exhaust that gets RED hot.

You can also pull plugs to see if any of them are TOO white.
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Old 01-27-2012, 10:49 PM
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12v, 1954, 2012, choke, chokewiring, electric, f100, ford, good, gt500, location, shelby, solenoid, switched, v8, wire

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