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Fitting doors for full quarter replacement

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Old 01-28-2012, 07:39 PM
  #1  
jgemperline
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Default Fitting doors for full quarter replacement

Im having trouble "twisting"
my door to close this gap. It's the same story on the other side. They are aftermarket doors. I feel like my adjustments have hit their limits. Any suggestions are welcome? Also how good do I need these for replacement of full quarter?

Thanks
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Old 01-29-2012, 08:10 AM
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palerider
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You should get these pretty close to where you want them before you do your full qtrs. You're really not going to make up the difference when you do your qtrs. I'm assuming you will be keeping your original pillars. Hows the top of the door lining up? Are they in as much of the bottoms are out. If so may need to tweak the hinge holes. Did your original doors line up ok? Finally what brand of doors are you using I had dynacorn on my passenger nice fit. Used another brand on driver and could not get it right - ended up keeping original door and plan on reskinning. I'm doing full qtrs now and still fighting the drivers side. I replaced my inner/outer rockers - which is I think is adding to my issues.
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Old 01-29-2012, 08:56 AM
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zmetalmilitia
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I had that exact same issue. Sadly to say, there was nothing I could do to fix it. As soon as I tweaked an adjustment somewhere, the gap somewhee else got worse. I had the aftermarket doors painted and when I was re-assembling, I couldn't stand it. I had to find some original doors and re-do them. They worked perfectly. There must be some defect in a certain brand of aftermarket doors that are off at this location. I did notice the chepaer quality of the aftermarket doors too, they seemed to be lighter and flimsier. Especially once all the door hardware and glass is mounted in there, that gap area was even worse.

Unless there is some special tweak I didn't try or my body guy didn't try, there isn't much that can be done to get this right. Good luck.

In fact in my signature pic are the aftermarket doors with this issue. You can see that gap bludging out in front of the rear tire. Hideous.

Last edited by zmetalmilitia; 01-29-2012 at 09:03 AM.
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Old 01-29-2012, 09:05 AM
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Hard to tell by your pic, but bottom quarter skin appears to be out from rocker. I'm in the middle of replacing quarters on '67 coupe, as well as doors. One side done, one to go. I found that by setting door up with good seam & alignment to rocker & fender, then adjusting quarter in & out to door worked well. You can actually flex quarter to match door contours by making cuts in quarter lip that wraps into jam area that allow adjusting outside skin.

I started welding jam area quarter welding at the front lower quarter/rocker corner, and then worked up adjusting quarter to door. After completing completing jam spot welds, I welded up cuts I made in quarter lip.

This may not be necessary with good Ford tooling doors & quarters, but ones that I purchased were far from that.
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Old 01-29-2012, 09:59 AM
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BuckeyeDemon
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based on your one picture, it appears your complaint is that the bottom of the door sticks out and the top doesn't.

do you have the striker or door latch installed? how about any rubber bumpers/weatherstrip?

it appears you need to grab the door and twist it hard (not talking about hinge adjustment as i'm assuming that's what you meant by adjustments at the limit).

it may help to but a piece of wood in the jamp at the top and push on the bottom side of the door.

if it's a repop door similar to mine, the skin wasn't welded to the frame making tweaking very easy. i also discovered eveyrtime i would close the door its adjustment would change a little bit. putting spot welds every few inches in the skin stiffened it up. both doors required work.

don't give up.




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Old 01-29-2012, 11:30 AM
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jgemperline
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Thanks!!! I feel like I have direction now. Sorry about my bad picture. I'll try and get some better ones as I tweak the door. Zmetal I would bet money these are your old doors. I see your from Colorado and noticed you have an ad for some doors in the springs. I got these from a guy in Longmont this past summer and the doors have a nice black and clear coat. Small world! I'll try some of buckeyes tips. I don't have any rubber or the latch and striker on. Should I? I need to take these off when I'm done with my quarters. Thanks again.
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Old 01-29-2012, 01:54 PM
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zmetalmilitia
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That is weird if those are my old doors. lol. Small world indeed. If you have some body working skills, they can be fitted, it's just I didn't have the time or patience..........like buckeye said, don't give up. Yeah, I do have an ad but those are for my original, original doors, man have I gone through some parts. I had 3 sets of doors at one time........geeezh

One other tip, once you get the door fitted, you will also need to test fit it with weather stripping on. That can tweak the gaps too.

Last edited by zmetalmilitia; 01-29-2012 at 01:56 PM.
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Old 01-29-2012, 09:15 PM
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MustangsToFear
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The problem is in the door. How you fix it is at the top of the door where the vent window goes it a metal tab that joins the outer and the inner together. All you do is break the spot welds loose and twist the door until it lines up where it should and re weld it. We had one that stuck out 5/8 of an inch. That is the reason why I ditched the idea of the one piece door glass. That tab it critical to keeping the door lined up.
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Old 02-09-2012, 01:19 PM
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jgemperline
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Im still waiting for my valance and stirker to come. But before I go doing something stupid I have to ask. Are these the welds your talking about?

and one more crapy photo from my phone.


Thanks
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Old 02-09-2012, 08:07 PM
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The 2 weld are at the top of the door at the front, it is what connects the outer skin to the inner. When you install your vent glass it sits on top of it .
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