MarkOPKS

Hi all,

I'm new to the Mustang community and have a few questions. First for some background on the project. I am going to be building a 66 or 67 (depends on which car my uncle buys - he's taking the 9-inch rear end out of one of a couple local craigslist cars) 289 coupe. Plans are to turn it into a race-spec-ish mustang. My uncle and I have a lot of parts from a couple previous cars he has purchased, and we are trying to keep this budget as low as possible. Between both of us we will be able to fabricate everything and do bodywork/paint. Also tracking a couple World Class T-5 transmissions and want to use an explorer 8.8 rear end, 4 wheel disc brakes and 17x8 wheels. Shelby drop and new shocks/struts/springs/etc. will be my suspension setup.

My biggest question is the engine build. We have a good 289 block with a good rotating assembly, cylinder walls, pistons, etc. Going to just clean and use. New lifters, timing chain/gear set. Also have a M Select Performance Camshaft:
Intake - 296
Exhaust - 311
Valve Lift Intake - 474
Valve Lift Exh - 498
Duration Intake - 288
Duration Exh - 300
Doing a little bit of reading I feel like this isn't a bad starting place. My goal is to have around 300 HP. Going to likely use the stock or 351w heads and port match. 600-650 cfm 4-barrel carb and a 2-barrel intake. Going with a 45-degree side-exit exhaust in front of the rear wheels with cherry bomb glasspacks.

What do you all think of this? Am I missing anything big here? Thanks in advance for any tips/advice. Looking forward to getting this started when I get home for the summer from school!

1slow67

The explorer rear has an offset chunk if I remember right. Why use a 2bbl intake with a 4bbl carb? Just get and eldelbrock performer or weiand stealth intake.

MarkOPKS

I wondered the same thing, my uncle says its a trick he heard from one of his buddies to use the 2 barrel intake with the 4 barrel carb but i just went with it, he's built tons of classic mustang bosses and shelbys. Can you explain that explorer offset chunk a little more? I figured it would be a nice fit since its 59 1/2 inches wide but if it's going to be too much of a pita to fit I'm sure there's other good rear ends out there

1slow67

The intake makes no sense cause the intake will have only enough room for 2 of the valves. And from what I understand one side of the axles is longer than the other side, so it would mess with the alignment.

MarkOPKS

Ok that makes sense to me, thanks for the tip! Looking into the rear axle further...

jojobanks

you'll want to just go ahead and get aftermarket heads if you're using a performance camshaft. The rocker studs on the stock 289 head are press in and will pull out with the springs you'll have to use with the camshaft. You'll have to have a machine shop install screw in studs. Also, more than likely you'll have binding issues with your springs unless you cut and machine the stock valve guides. There's a large pedistal that comes up the middle of the stock springs and any kind of beehive or double spring will bind. not to mention the stock 289 heads have a huge smog bump in the exhaust ports that's very restrictive. you'll want to port that out of there if you want to make any good power.

Also, If you're planning on making over 300tq, I'd plan on building the t-5. The strongest manufactured t-5 available (the cobra spec) is only rated for 330tq. Mustang guys that make power break these trannies all the time.

1slow67 is right about the 8.8 explorer rear, although I THINK you only have to worry about 4x4 model 8.8s having the offset. Not 100% on that though. If you get an offset rear you'll have to modify both the housing and make sure you have matching-length axles in both sides. I didn't have to modify my 8.8 rear, but mine was out of a 2001 mustang. I simply got different offset wheels (although they still stick out a little farther than I'd like.)

JMD

IMO that cam has too damn much duration for the car to be streetable. My son is running a similar cam in his 408 powered 66. (with a bit more lift)

He can't wait to get it out, and the bigger engine will handle the big cam better than the 289 will.

MarkOPKS

Wow lots of good information, thanks! Heads I definitely understand. Are there any good ones out there that won't take up 20 percent of my budget? (trying to keep it at 5 grand. Sounds crazy but having a good stockpile of parts to start with and not needing much in the way of interior helps. Got the T-5 under control, local guy builds them to runs 10.6 in his fox, pretty cheap if you supply a tranny for him to build. For the cam, what exactly does streetable mean? Is it more of a drag cam or road race high rpm cam? What's the downside of the high duration, and is there any upside?

jojobanks

the upside is it'll flow awesome and would be a very good turbo/supercharger cam. The downside is without raising the idle to like 2k it'll struggle to sit there and idle. VERY lopey.

As far as heads I would go with edelbrock e-streets for a decent quality head. You can get them complete for 900-1000. you can get some procomps without breaking the bank, but you'll want to get them bare as I hear the equipment they come with blows and is really low quality. Bare I see them all the time on ebay for like $460, although all the extra valvetrain components will probably cost you at least another $400, but in the end they'll probably equal the cost of the e-streets with more flow.

MonsterBilly

you can do the 8.8 out of an explorer. I did it. ready my right up on it. Search this forum. It was easy and cheap. One of the best upgrades i did to my car.
It was a lot of work though.

I would pass on the e-street heads. For another 100 you can get the trick flow heads that will kill the e-street. another 100 at that point is totally worth it. look on summit. they are $1199 complete. if you watch they go on sale once a year for $250 off which means you can get them for $950 complete. It is a steel......Here is the part # http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-51400002/