Convert 2V to 4V using Edelbrock carb
#1
Convert 2V to 4V using Edelbrock carb
OK, who out there is running an Edelbrock carb on they're 289? I have a '65 289 2V Auto trans Mustang. I have a Ford 4 barrel intake manifold from '66 and a 1403 500 cfm Edelbrock carb ready to install. My question is what else do I need for this application, spacer, linkage, lead for the electric choke, etc. My current 2 barrel manifold has a spacer, so I assume I will need one for the 4 barrel, any recommendations on how thick it should be? Do I need any additional linkage for the transmission kick down, throttle ,etc. I know I need a power source to the electric choke, do any vendors make on for this type of application?
Thank you, Tim
Thank you, Tim
#2
Hi Tim - I switched out my 2 barrel for a 4 barrel Edelbrock 1406 (600 cfm) on my 302. In addition to the 4 barrel intake, you'll need a gasket sealer for the intake and a throttle linkage adapter. Edelbrock manufactures the adapters.
If I recall correctly, the 2 barrel spacer had a manifold vacuum port on it - which your new carb should have in it's base, therefore a spacer is not necessary. I don't currently run a spacer with my new setup. But I do have a spacer that I have never gotten to installing...so I can't say if it improves torque, etc...
Lastly, you can find a switched power source for the choke in a number of places. I use the starter solenoid - but that is sometimes discouraged as a source. Other sources are at the fuse block or ignition switch. Just be sure its a switched supply.
That should do it. One last thing, you'll have to pull the distributor, so take a picture of the rotor location prior to pulling it.
Good Luck.
If I recall correctly, the 2 barrel spacer had a manifold vacuum port on it - which your new carb should have in it's base, therefore a spacer is not necessary. I don't currently run a spacer with my new setup. But I do have a spacer that I have never gotten to installing...so I can't say if it improves torque, etc...
Lastly, you can find a switched power source for the choke in a number of places. I use the starter solenoid - but that is sometimes discouraged as a source. Other sources are at the fuse block or ignition switch. Just be sure its a switched supply.
That should do it. One last thing, you'll have to pull the distributor, so take a picture of the rotor location prior to pulling it.
Good Luck.
#3
Convert 2V to 4V using Edelbrock carb Convert 2V to 4V
Hi, thanks for the info. I didn’t get any bikes on that tread, I assume many out there have make the switch, so I expected more banter. Anyway, Yes I’m well into it, pulled my old manifold, have the “new” one cleaned a ready to go on. The carb arrived Fri, I did get the spacer, it was only $15 bucks delivered so I’ll try it.
Under the manifold and valve covers was pretty ugly, lots of sludgy crap everywhere. I was surprised, the car only has 66K, but it sat for 25 years, I know that’s not good. So spent lots of time this weekend just cleaning, oh well.
Did you have a cable or rod throttle linkage originally? I was told I’d need the adaptor kit with an cable setup, but not the rod. Mine is rod.
So I have to ask, did you notice much of a difference, how does your car run now, are you happy with the setup?
Thanks again for the info,
Tim
Under the manifold and valve covers was pretty ugly, lots of sludgy crap everywhere. I was surprised, the car only has 66K, but it sat for 25 years, I know that’s not good. So spent lots of time this weekend just cleaning, oh well.
Did you have a cable or rod throttle linkage originally? I was told I’d need the adaptor kit with an cable setup, but not the rod. Mine is rod.
So I have to ask, did you notice much of a difference, how does your car run now, are you happy with the setup?
Thanks again for the info,
Tim
#4
I have both a 302 and a 289 with 600 cfm Edelbrocks on them. The 289 was a stock 2 barrel and I replaced the intake with an Edelbrock RPM model. The carb is a 1406. The difference was very noticeable. One of those smile on your face moments when something actually goes right. That carb was right out of the box and I haven't screwed with it.
The 302 has the same carb and I brought it back to factory out of the box specs on a rebuilt 302. It runs fine, but needs some tuning.
For the linkage I chose to drill a small hole on the end of my accelerator rod and washer and cotter pinned it to the carb. If they sell a ready to go kit by all means buy it.
I am not running a spacer on either right now. I took the one off the 302 because it is warped a bit and I suspected it was causing a vacuum leak.
My power for the choke comes from the harness and I believe I am using the power that would have gone to my heater fan, which I don't have.
The other I am taking off the positive side of the ignition coil. Hasn't caused any problems yet. Don't think I would recommend it.
The 302 has the same carb and I brought it back to factory out of the box specs on a rebuilt 302. It runs fine, but needs some tuning.
For the linkage I chose to drill a small hole on the end of my accelerator rod and washer and cotter pinned it to the carb. If they sell a ready to go kit by all means buy it.
I am not running a spacer on either right now. I took the one off the 302 because it is warped a bit and I suspected it was causing a vacuum leak.
My power for the choke comes from the harness and I believe I am using the power that would have gone to my heater fan, which I don't have.
The other I am taking off the positive side of the ignition coil. Hasn't caused any problems yet. Don't think I would recommend it.
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