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Floor pan help

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Old 03-07-2012, 07:33 AM
  #11  
zmetalmilitia
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I did drill some of the welds out but after the daunting task of drilling out several hundred, I had a lot of metal to replace, I found that the air chisel worked great, especially on the thin and brittle metal. There were some solid areas of metal that didn't want to let loose, then I would drill, chisel, cut-off wheel, etc. pretty much whatever gets the job done. Then grind it down to a nice clean and level surface, readying it for the new metal. Like jgemperline said, anything will get the job done. Don't rush it and plan it out before you cut. It can get expensive if you start making mistakes.
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Old 03-07-2012, 12:48 PM
  #12  
dmaclaren
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what is the best way to measure the tunnle for the floor pan replacement so you have a good cut line?

Also, do you butt that side or do you plug weld the whole pan?
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Old 03-07-2012, 07:00 PM
  #13  
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Unless you are good welder I would not butt weld. I lay the piece over the area I'm cutting out trace it and cut a 1/2 smaller. Lay over top and weld the seams. Some people weld top and bottom side seams. I don't think its really necessary though.
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Old 03-08-2012, 06:27 AM
  #14  
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So no plugs as well then?
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Old 03-08-2012, 12:50 PM
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You will have to do some plug welds for torue box and where the floor lays over the rails but I would seam weld where floor overlap - stronger and less like to get a leak.
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Old 03-08-2012, 01:36 PM
  #16  
zmetalmilitia
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I did both kinds ogf welds, seam overlaop welds and plug welds. Both are good and hold well. I did both because I could. THen I seam sealed everything.
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Old 03-08-2012, 02:22 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by zmetalmilitia
I did both kinds ogf welds, seam overlaop welds and plug welds. Both are good and hold well. I did both because I could. THen I seam sealed everything.
Did you weld the overlap on the under side? if not, is this what you seam sealed?

for the plug welds, only the top part has the hole in it right or do you have a complete hole. I have see both ways as some use sheet metal screws to pull the piece tight.
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Old 03-08-2012, 05:59 PM
  #18  
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Plug weld only the top part has a hole. You fill in the hole with welder and seals the 2 pieces together. Sheet metal screws are nice either way to hold in place. I welded seams from top. Really dont like welding underneath if I can advoid it. I seam seal both sides although just underside would be fine. Good place to learn - no one really sees it anyway. Practice on some scrap same thickness first.
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:34 AM
  #19  
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Thanks for the info. So, if people use the sheet metal screws, then it's a hole in both pieces. With that, is the there is a hole in both pieces? Will it be strong enough?

Again, thanks for all this information. I should have my Eastwood 135 mig welder in the mail tomorrow and later today I am going to head out to get some bottle gas (75/25)
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Old 03-09-2012, 12:21 PM
  #20  
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once you take the sheet metal screw out you weld the hole shut. Use an 1/8 bit and hole is small and welds easily. The eastwood welder looks pretty nice for the money. I've got a lincoln 130 and has handled all the repairs on current project. Practice with some sheet metal similiar thinkness. Get yourself a good auto darkening helmet. I've got a hobart solar one and paid less than 100 for and like it a lot.
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