dmaclaren

Edited to be more clear.

I removed a patch on the front drivers side torque box. It appears that water got between the box and the firewall assembly. So, my goal is to replace as much as I can but I am not into removing the firewall assembly and replacing the torque boxes if they can be spared. I am new to all this and I will be purchasing a mig welder to start learning how to do the welding.

I will need to replace the floor pan, maybe full on the drivers side as it needs front and rear. I was thinking about just the front and rear as I don’t think I can get the sear riser off clean.
So, here are my questions.

1. The bottom, sides of the torque box look very solid. The pieces you see cut below were rusted through. What is left, and I have to clean a little up top, are all back to solid metal.
a. I should be able to patch the torque, right????
2. You can see where I had to go up the firewall to where it’s exposing the engine bay, what do I do there?
3. I am going to have to buy the FLOOR TO FIREWALL EXTENSION (cj pony?) and will have to cut to fit. I was thinking about keeping all the firewall assembly that is still up to the middle of the frame rail and overlap and plug weld (right term?) so I am able to keep that side attached to the frame rail. IS THIS A GOOD IDEA?
4. How do I remove the floor pan from the rocker, I don’t want to mess it up?
5. How did this rust here? Did they not clean it up when they put in the firewall assembly?



The car has been painted and I do not have the ability to really remove the firewall assembly and most likely replace the torque box. I would hire someone if it was bad but they are great except where the piece was rusted out.

dmaclaren

edited to keep thoughts in order....


HELP!!

So, I cleaned up some. It looks like the put a firewall piece over the original as you can see by the third piece. So, I don't want to remove the original and I am not going to replace the full firewall piece. So, I think I should clean up the existing under orig piece, coat with rust paint. Then buy a toe board, cut what I need to patch the bad metal. The orig seems to go right into the torque box. I am not good enough to replace it all. I think ordering a toe board and only cuttine to a point.


What do you think I should cut to? I am worried I cut too high but that is where the bad metal went to. Also, there is not an opening into the engine bay. I need to do something to close that up. I don't think it's in the pic but I think I can retake the pic to show it. Any help is welcome.

dmaclaren

So, this doesn't look right, does it? It looks like the middle is too deep compared to what I have. if so, due to the frame, it will sit high.

In the end, I will cut it as Ia m not going too replace the full toe.

Thought on this being the right part?
http://www.cjponyparts.com/FLOOR-TO-...-1970/p/M126L/

dmaclaren

Can anyone provide any information?

I just saw that dynacorn has a two piece where I could remove the top plate on mine.

Although the dash is off the steering and all pedals are there. I may have to go over the top of the orig as I don't think I can get off the top plate. Maybe If I am lucky the toe board piece is higher than the toque and I can get to it with the grinder from the wheel well.

sound like an idea?

palerider

Part you pointed out is what you need in addition to the torque box. May need a front driver floor also. Never replaced just top of torque one. The ones I have dome I always replaced the whole piece. They are basically held in by spot welds and are not too difficult to remove. But you need to take fender off to make it a lot easier. Areas you plan on cutting out looks right - buy the piece first and only cut out out the floor extension that is necessary.

How is you cowl? Is it leaking? That's what may have caused to rust out. To test take a gallon of water and pour thru top vents to see if in any water comes on the inside. Should be able to look up under dash also to see if any holes.

dmaclaren

I plan on a full drivers side floor pan. Is there any way that I can save the seat riser? I am thinking about the two piece torque box as I really don't want to remove the whole box as it's onlyt the top with the rust issue.
I don't know how that much rust happened in between the torque and toe board unless it was getting in from the wheel well. I am thinking that once I repair, I seam seal (This is what to use, right?

Also I am going to wheel the wheel well then por 15 then rubber coat as to me this seems like the best wayt o protect this area as the por15 is hard as nails once down. I assume it's better than having primer & epoxy paint.

palerider

Did not look like you need a full pan - they sell a short one also that takes it up to riser. In any case you can remove riser with a spot weld cutter. The reason I asked about the cowl is that if it is rusted you will gor the kind of rot your car has.

zmetalmilitia

You can replace any peice of metal you want to. You'll have to cut the metal to fit and weld it on. Most of the time, it is easier to replace to full piece, such as the torque box or floor pan, since you will probably have to buy these pieces anyways.

I cut my torque pieces out with a cutoff wheel and and air chisel, then prepped it with a wheel grinder, removing all rust. Then weld the new peices on, seam seal, and primer, paint.

You should determine if there are any water leaks inside your car. The cowl is a good place to start. These cars were never originally rust protected when built long ago. Now is your chance to do it right.

dmaclaren

zmetalmilitia, did you air chisel without drilling the spot welds? Also, if my torque is not orig, those would be plug welds and then can I air chisel without drilling them out.

jgemperline

I used air chisel, grinder, cut off wheel.... Anything that you think will get it done. Just take your time and think before you cut. Try and enjoy the mess you make. Not every one gets to cut up a car. Enjoy!