Coupe

How will you attatch that export brace without a shock tower?
Seriously, you never see the cars properly braced after these kits are installed.
Without the strength of the tower that apron and the frame to toeboard to frame joint will see all of the loads. I think there may be a reason you don't see a bunch of them on here.

JMD

I am not trying to be a smart *** at all, (seriously) but the reason anyone sells anything is because someone else is buying... people but a lot of **** I wouldn't buy...

I am not saying MII suspension is bad, and I am not even saying it can't work damn well. What I am saying is (for sure my opinion) I don't really like the way a lot of the MII setups look on a lot of cars. and....

A classic Mustang is a kind of car that relies on body structure more than brute strength. Make no mistake, the inner fenders and shock towers add a LOT (lot, lot, lot) of structure to these cars.

An MII kit will add a substantial crossmember to the mix, making up for some of the loss of the shock towers, but in my opinion, the MII setup will stress the remaining uni-body in ways and directions that it was not designed to be stressed...

Certainly do what works for you, whether it is modified stock, or MII, just check it out before hand, avoid the impulse buy. And while I can't offer real world experience with a true MII kit, I can say that a stock style suspension with urethane bushings, stiff springs, and with rack and pinon steering will handle damn good, well enough that I would put it up against any MII based suspension...

Edit - Forgot to mention, it is going to be more work installing the Monte carlo bar AND the export Brace with the shock towers out... Think of this also, even with the shock towers in, performance folks want to stiffen these cars up by adding to and improving the structure.

JMD

On the other hand, if your frame rails are shot, a kit that incorporates new frame rails might make a lot of sense, a one piece weld in "clip" might seal the deal.....

Sometimes it helps to be able to lay eyes on a car in order to give the right advice...

Some pics of the rails, floor etc. would improve the advice though...

andrewmp6

I'm with jmd making clothes one size fits all don't work and why would that work with suspension?That is the reason places like tci can sell something cheap because they just change the crossmember size and rack everything else is the same on every kit they sell.I have only drove one car with a mustang 2 kit in it it was ok if your just cruising down the road when it came to handling it was lacking to me.In the turns i could feel even bump in the road harder then my 68 mustang felt on the same road.

OCHOHILL

Follow the load path for beam and twist. Follow the path from the front coil spring location to the rear leaf spring mounting points.

The path doesn't go through the lower from rails. It goes through the towers to the export bracing and apron into the cowl. Then to the A pillars and roof. The firewall, rockers, tunnel, tunnel bracing and B pillars are part of the system too. Without the shock towers, the front rails are to tines on a fork flexing in all directions.

Without the towers, the load path is front frame rails to firewall. The firewall becomes a fulcrum bearing greater load than before. The rear of the lever is the tunnel bracing.

Now imagine the front framerails sans towers in twist (hard cornering). None of the twist is transmitted via the cowl to the A pillars. The aprons prevent beam deflection not twist. Now the chassis stays in place while the front deflects in cornering. Twist isn't transmitted until the tunnel reaches it's limit.

For kicks, study a tube frame race car chassis. The bracing always ties to the spring mounting location. Through voodoo, it doesn't need to be done on a MII in a vintage mustang.

People buy these kits because they don't know better. For years MII kits have been installed on framed hot rods. Mustangs don't have frames.

Here is the really stupid part. I thought I challenged one builder to document the ridgidity of a stock chassis then compare it to their kit and never got a response. It would be simple to document. It would sell many, many kits. I haven't seen one yet. You rarely find suspension performance comparisons backed with hard data. I haven't seen one yet.

Last comment.

I was flipping through an old mag in the wrench section. The reader asked about upgrading the suspension for aggresive driving. The final statement from the editor was to go to a local track and see what the racers use. I thought it sound advice. Anybody roadcoursing an MII setup? I am anxious to read your review.

andrewmp6

Only time i see using one is if its a drag car or something old like 1940s back,But most street rodders i know now are using c4 or c5 corvette suspension because it handles a lot better.

zmetalmilitia

Like said here, you need to find and remove the rust first. No sense in adding a band-aid to the situation. I would pull everything out of the engine bay, go over the front end and replace all the rust. That may require shock towers, frame rails, who knows what you are going to find but at least if you brake hard, shock towers won't break.

Then you can decide what to put in as far as upgrades go. There are several stock bolt in options that don't require removing the shock tower completely. Most do that for big engine space requirements. Stock susepnsion with a few aftermarket upgrades can be perfect for cruising. Don't need a race suspension to drive down the street. Depends what you are going to do with the car.

swhite832

Sounds reasonable.
Not to be an *** but dealing with rust when found is a no brainer.
After looking at some schematics, after market parts, and the vehicle itself it would seem that the panel that replaces the shock tower along with some custom export braces would satisfy some of the concerns about load transfer.
I talked to those who have installed TCI kits. They say they have had no issues whatsoever. I talked to TCI. They say the unit I'm looking at is engineered for the car I'm placing it in. All have said they have heard of no car failing for any reason even without export braces.

Have any of you who prefer not to do something like this know of anyone, or even heard of anyone having such negative issues? I need real world experience here.

Remember, Im not cutting up a Shelby, boss, Mach I, There is nothing matching or rare about this car. I want to drive it.

Boxwrenchesareslow

i agree with zmetalmulitia, no need to get all fancy if its just a nice driver.. the shock tower reinforcement plates that are stamped outta 1/8- 3/16" steel look nice when done, especially if you do nice welds and blend them in. stock suspension desgin isnt too bad especially if you do the shelby upper arm drop, some nice 600lb springs or whatever, then some nice kybs or bilsteins, 1 1/8 sway bar, and that will drive real nice