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68 302 4 barrel after market carb

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Old 03-08-2012, 08:31 PM   #1
danhiman
 
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Default 68 302 4 barrel after market carb

My Dad had a heart attack and I am now trying to help get his Mustang in order. Some time ago he had someone, he can't remember, change his carb. When I got it, it Idled super hi in park/neutral, and hi in drive, clunking bad when shifted. His tranny leaks bad, seems to be tore up. The car on the road is a beast, I connected the vacuum lines, tuned down the carb as much as possible, but I can't control the idle to a reasonable idle. I have a feeling the carb is to big for the car, help. I use to work on carbuatored cars in HS, so Its be awhile. Click the image to open in full size.
[IMG][IMG][IMG]

Click the image to open in full size.[/IMG]http://www.flickr.com/photos/52187078@N02/6965785509/in/photostream/[/IMG][/IMG]
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Old 03-08-2012, 08:39 PM   #2
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What size carb is it? If you can get a part number we can find out. Also check the timing and look for vacuum leaks.

Sorry to hear about your Dad!
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:13 PM   #3
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Looks like it's this carburetor, which should be fine if properly tuned.
http://www.holley.com/0-80570.asp
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:22 PM   #4
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If it is that 570 cfm then its right on for your 302. However being a holley cant you change the internals to get more cfm? If someone has, how can you tell?
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:23 PM   #5
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I tried to post pics, heres a link
http://www.flickr.com/photos/52187078@N02/6965785509/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/5218707...n/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/5218707...n/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/5218707...n/photostream/
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:27 PM   #6
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I did see your pictures and looked up the list number. It's a 570 which should be perfect for a 302.
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:38 PM   #7
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I read some where that 1.8 per litre only applies to modified engines. My brother did say that he remembers Dad telling him you can't time it to factory for some reason. He had a stoke as well a Quad by-pass. There really isn't alot of vacuum lines, I did check them, found no leaks, but the timing? I see the 80570 part # on the front. The tranny does not have OD. Is the Trans Linkage hardware required?
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:40 PM   #8
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I have to admit, it hauls butt, Just the idle and going into gear is not so good. I'm thinking it will need a new tranny and if so maybe an OD would be nice.
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:54 PM   #9
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Why wont it time? there may be another hidden issue there.

I was wrong about vacuum. If it was a leak it wouldnt idle very well and would pop and sputter.

I still think carb adjustment or timing.
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:57 PM   #10
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I'll have to check the timing this weekend.
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Old 03-08-2012, 10:02 PM   #11
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Also, If it is idling real high, when you put it in gear it will defiantly clunk. Hopefully that is solved when you fix the idle. Make sure there is oil in the tranny, low levels will cause clunking and much worse issues.
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Old 03-08-2012, 10:19 PM   #12
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I had a 570 once, the 600 holley was SOOOOOO much better. That being said you should be able to get 'er dialed in with what you've got. +1 for clunking while going into gear because it's idling high. Even if the trans is leaky the front and rear seals and new pan gasket are super cheap so if it shifts ok once you idle it down i wouldn't worry about shelling out for a replacement (especially a piece of **** AOD)
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Old 03-08-2012, 10:20 PM   #13
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Sure will, thanks for the input. I will post when I make progress. I just bought a timing gun. I've been working on 944s so I didn't need one.
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:25 AM   #14
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Your high idle and clunk into gear is the same symptoms seen when the vacuum line is bad or split at the tail end of the tranny, into the vacuum modulator. That line runs between the vacuum modulator, passenger side of the tranny's tail, up to the rear of the intake manifold. It's a quick check, and simple to correct. I suggest you take a glance before get too deep into your carb.
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Old 03-09-2012, 12:39 PM   #15
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I am planning on lifting the car to inspect the tranny for cracks as well. Thanks for the info.
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Old 05-01-2012, 06:36 PM   #16
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I checked the vacuum line and it seems fine. The belly tray on the tranny was loose so i gently tightened the bolts. When I disconnected the vacuum line next to the trann vacuum line going into the intake manifold, the idle in park did go down slightly. The idle while in gear is good, its high while in park.
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Old 05-01-2012, 06:38 PM   #17
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Am I suppose to have the automatic transmission bracket for this carb?
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:25 PM   #18
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A vacuum leak doesn't necessarily have to come from a vacuum line. The carb may not be sitting tight down against the manifold (or spacer). If the carb is snugged down fairly tight, it may need a gasket between the carb and manifold.
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Old 05-02-2012, 10:43 AM   #19
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spray some carb cleaner around all the connections to check for a vacuum leak. If the idle changes when u spray it, u know u found the leak.
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Old 05-02-2012, 12:04 PM   #20
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Do you know where the idle adjustment is? are you turning the correct one? Did someone open the secondaries too far at that adjusment? There are many adjusments that could have been made. i would first spary carb fluid around the base to check there for vac leaks.

if this screw has been turned too far it will make the idle high as well Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 05-02-2012, 12:04 PM
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1968, 302, 68, barrel, carb, carburetor, cost, exhaust, images, intake, line, mustang, rebuild, setup, vacuum

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