Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Finally Reached A Milestone

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Old 04-24-2012, 09:29 PM
  #21  
palerider
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Originally Posted by Couper
Looks like you cut out a section of the passenger side front frame rail,..why and what did you use to get such a clean cut out?

I'm asking because my passenger side frame rail had the two interior, welded-on support nuts break off when I was removing them, now I want to cut out a section of the rail and look inside at the rust or whatever made these pieces break off
Removed spots welds in top and bottom lip then took cuttoff wheel and cut back to the point I knew there was no rust. You can by a replacement patch with nuts premounted and spot weld and buld weld back in. It was pretty easy. Moisture collects behind mounting table in frame causing it to rust out.

If just the nuts are broken off I've seen inserts you can get get - not sure the name of them though.

Last edited by palerider; 04-24-2012 at 09:32 PM.
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:32 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Old Mustanger
Wow, that was a pretty crusty stang when you started! The end result looks excellent, you should be proud.
Thanks learned a lot on this one. Never welded anything subtantial prior to this. Already got some ideas for next one. Like get a rotisserie to damn old to be sandblasting under a car anymore. :-)
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Old 04-25-2012, 05:32 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by palerider
Removed spots welds in top and bottom lip then took cuttoff wheel and cut back to the point I knew there was no rust. You can by a replacement patch with nuts premounted and spot weld and buld weld back in. It was pretty easy. Moisture collects behind mounting table in frame causing it to rust out.

If just the nuts are broken off I've seen inserts you can get get - not sure the name of them though.
No rust from the outside, but still wanna cut out a section like you did and take a look,....theres a reason why they both just broke off,..probably rust.

So did you have to cut out that section because the nuts broke or wass there visible rust?
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Old 04-25-2012, 05:37 PM
  #24  
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Tell me about your support dolly,...where and how much, pretty cool and basic looking!
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Old 04-25-2012, 06:39 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Couper
No rust from the outside, but still wanna cut out a section like you did and take a look,....theres a reason why they both just broke off,..probably rust.

So did you have to cut out that section because the nuts broke or wass there visible rust?
Mine had actually visible rust - plus the nuts where broken off. The nuts are baically on a bracket that broke inside frame and where bracket attaches to frame was rusting. actually a bad design and collects water. The replacement piece just has nuts tacked to frame patch.
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Old 04-25-2012, 06:48 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Couper
Tell me about your support dolly,...where and how much, pretty cool and basic looking!
Made support dolly myself. Got idea from some post I stumbled on. Took a square tube steel and welded some other square tube with a pieces a plate welded to that and bolted 2 12" swivel wheels to it. Bolted square tube to where cross member goes.

For the rear just took suare tube and welded a plate on that and mounted fixed 12" wheels to that. Bolted square tubes where leaf mount on rear torque boxes goes. In both front and the back just took some flat stock and bolted to square tub and somewhere on frame to keep solid.

The wheels were the most expensive part - I think I paid $40 a piece for them. You can use cheaper casters but I wanted something I could push easily - even if gravel driveway if needed.

I can post more picks if interested.

Last edited by palerider; 04-25-2012 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 04-25-2012, 10:40 PM
  #27  
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please post away,....

Tell me more about the nut brackets inside the rails, if the nuts are onlt attached to a bracket, how does the bracket attach to the frame. Wishful thinking on my part, but I'd hate to cut open the frame just to replace these brackets.

Maybe It'll be better to just cut an opening in the front of the frame and take a look there, if no rust maybe a lockwasher and a long wrench will do the trick.
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Old 04-26-2012, 06:18 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Couper
please post away,....

Tell me more about the nut brackets inside the rails, if the nuts are onlt attached to a bracket, how does the bracket attach to the frame. Wishful thinking on my part, but I'd hate to cut open the frame just to replace these brackets.

Maybe It'll be better to just cut an opening in the front of the frame and take a look there, if no rust maybe a lockwasher and a long wrench will do the trick.
Kinda of strecthing my memory here but the braket is spot welded to frame rail. My guess is that the spot welds rusted where thet attached to frame rail.

Attached is what I was referrng to as far as insert nuts.

Its really not a big deal cutting peice out either. Spot welds on top and bottom and cut off to slice vertical.

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...action=product
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Old 04-26-2012, 06:23 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Couper
please post away,....

Tell me more about the nut brackets inside the rails, if the nuts are onlt attached to a bracket, how does the bracket attach to the frame. Wishful thinking on my part, but I'd hate to cut open the frame just to replace these brackets.

Maybe It'll be better to just cut an opening in the front of the frame and take a look there, if no rust maybe a lockwasher and a long wrench will do the trick.
Kinda of strecthing my memory here but the braket is spot welded to frame rail. My guess is that the spot welds rusted where thet attached to frame rail.

I don't think I would do from front. Whatever you do you want to be able to solidify nuts in place in case you have to remove bumper bracket in future.

Attached is what I was referrng to as far as insert nuts.

I gues you could also drill a hole threw the other side of frame rail and run a lag bolt . Nobody would see it since the battery tray would cover it.

Its really not a big deal cutting peice out either. Spot welds on top and bottom and cut off to slice vertical.




http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...action=product
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Old 04-28-2012, 06:45 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by palerider
Time to turn it over to painter for fit and finish. Just shot everything with SPI black epoxy. Underside and engine I will leave as is. SPI producst seem really good. Not all that experienced in painting but seemed to flow on nice. I like it a lot better in the engine bay than what I used on my last project. Great thing about SPI is quick shipping and knowledgeable sales group that does not mind answering dumb questions. A lot of us are dyi-ers and don't have a lot of experience in all the areas. The companies with good customer service like SPI that will work with the newb are the ones that will get my business.

Love your work!!!! You seriously have done a killer job. I love SPI too- best products and customer service in the business, ever.
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