dmaclaren

so, All I want is to find a paint that I can add the beads too. I can't spray as I don't have a sprayer and with the beads, ti may be too thick.

So, I will be painting with a brush and or roller. The bead will thicken it a little but over all one that I can paint without the beads may do me the best.

I only need paint as a means to mic the beads and lay it down. I wanted to go primer as I can then prime too. As it's the inside, I am not worried about the special protection, if I had a better setup then that's another story.

What do you think I can use for paint that will hold up for the inside of the car?

BuckeyeDemon

automotive.

palerider

spray on truck bedliner would work also

dmaclaren

I hear many bad things about some paint on liners. Don't forget I will need to mix beads into the paint. It's more like a powder but they are beads.

I hear this can make the paint like a thick consistency.

I would need about 2 - 3 quarts I am thinking to do it all nice and thick from firewall to the start of the trunk and outer Qtr.

What bed liner is good?

I saw at Tractor Supply oil based tractor paint. Would this be a good paint?
Valspar Tractor enamel
Valspar oil based primer red oxide

Don't forget here that I am on good metal (2 new full pans & toe board. Rest is non rust metal. I have the PO% 15 cleaners (Marine clean and prep&ready). I am using this primer or what ever to mix the beads into so I can get that insulating factor. After the paint, I will lay B-quiet sound deadener down over top so I won't top coat it. I am really looking for a transport for the beads that will hold up. THis red oxide looks like it will work and so does the metal ray primer. It doesn't look like I need any activator/hardener wither and it's a good price. Plus it's for under tractors..... Thoughts????

82firebird

I would keep the Valspar where it belongs: on tractors.

I think it is cool that you are trying to make your own creation but, you are re-inventing the wheel to a certain degree. There are plenty of very effective and reasonably priced options on the market already. Just my .02 of course. Prime your bare metal and go over the primer with your liquid sound deadener/bedliner then B-Quiet/HushMat/FatMat/Dynomat, etc.

By mixing "beads" into your primary layer of primer you are compromising the product's ability to do it's job.

ozarks06

Just a heads up on using the latex bead paint. I used the latex bead paint from hytech sales. It was cheap enough - $50 per gallon. It worked fairly well. I put some Lowe's Frost King duct insulation over that and it was pretty quiet and cool. The only problem is the latex absorbs moisture. I had a small leak that let some water under the carpet and the paint absorbed it and swelled. When it did, it pulled the POR-15 off the floor pan (which is another story - no more POR-15 unless it's on RUSTY metal). Then with nothing over the steel, the moisture migrated from the latex to the steel and created surface rust.

Fortunately I found it before any real damage but I had to remove all the latex paint (which was a PAIN) and the POR-15 - which peeled right up.

I painted the floor with self-etching primer then used Herculiner bed liner on it. I was amazed at how much quieter and cooler the floor pan was with just the bedliner. I drove it before I put it back together and the area on the trans hump I didn't paint was much hotter than what I painted. I put some Lowe's Frost King duct insulation over the bedliner and it really works better than the latex sound beads did, both for sound and heat.

Just my experience. I was pleased with the latex bead paint until I had to take it out. A car's floor pan is not a good place for latex paint (IHMO). Maybe it would be safe if you painted over the latex with something to seal it - like enamel paint.

I'm not sure how effective the beads would be in a hard paint like epoxy. I think part of the sound absorbtion probably comes from the fact that the beads are suspended in a soft, thick paint. Without that they may not do much good.

dmaclaren

I have the hytech but I just bought the beads so I can mix with what I want. I was thinking of the bed liner, did you paint it on? I wonder about adding them to the bed liner. Did you brush on the liner? Did it go on thick? how much did you use, and how many coats?

I see this on line about pros/cons
Cons
.......
May tend to get tacky (gooey) in the summer's heat. So, what is yours doing under there?

.....

The beads are suspended when applied but are then tight after it dries which is where their magic happens.

chillininnh

Using anything but a good epoxy primer first would be a mistake IMO. Have you considered going with an epoxy primer first and then topping it with whatever you decide to use? I'd be uncomfortable applying an unproven concoction on my freshly repaired/bare floor pans after going through all that work. Seems penny wise and pound foolish. Do it once, do it right, and move on confidently. Just my 2 cents of course.

ozarks06

The Herculiner goes on pretty thin. I used a 2" roller (one comes with the kit). It is self-leveling like POR-15. I'd guess it's about as thick as a credit card. I used 2 coats. It has rubber pieces suspended in it. It's not like typical bed liner products, which means I probably wouldn't use it as a bedliner. It's a glossy finish and has held up well for the last year. Once it dries (after a few days) it's pretty much like any other paint. You might be able to mix your beads in that. Herculiner instructions say to paint over scuffed paint or primer. I used the gallon can in the kit. Not recommending it, it's just what I used and it's worked out pretty well.

Stevea

Do you have a picture of where it has been used before? I agree with others that you are reinventing the wheel again, but maybe there is a specific look you are going for?