ThetaTau87

I have a complete aluminum head 351 engine for sale. It should easily give you 400 hp. I don't have 50 posts yet so I haven't posted it in the classifieds here.

Complete engine from air cleaner to oil pan. Fully machined, balanced and ready to assemble with brand new parts. All tolerances verified by machine shop. Twisted Wedge aluminum heads, KB flat top pistons, Crane Cams roller rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 280 cam, 750 Holley carb, Edelbrock Torker II intake, Mallory Unilite distributor, full ARP fasteners for entire engine.

Most parts are brand new and still in the boxes with receipts. Let me know if you want more info. I'm asking less than a crate motor and significantly less than a stroker kit with all the supporting parts to get over 400hp. It's not assembled now, but I could assemble it before shipping it to you.





Lots more pics of all the parts here.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1133473...uxxcL1vu-EngE#

BuckeyeDemon

i agree. however, many don't have the tools and too many rookies learn the fine details the hard way.

i've read plasti gauge is not the best method to measure journal clearance's. it seems a lot of these parts out of the box are not plug and play (i.e. may also be out of round).

i'm not sure where you are getting machine work done where they ignore journal clearances and don't check the ring gap.

Stangatic

I agree with Starfury, but I think it also depends on how mechanically inclined you are and how stocked your garage is with the tools required to put the engine together. The only reason why I agree with Buckeye is because the warranty the engine should come with from the builder.

Buckeye- What is the pricing for? 351 or 302? I would be interested in see it if you can PM it to me.

BuckeyeDemon

windsor based.

PM your email to me.

frdnut

I am with buckeye on this one..I would have the machine shop assemble the shortblock..If you are mechanically inclined you can assemble the rest of the engine and still feel like you had a hand in building it...

mr_velocity

If you have a good shop absolutely. I've usually had shops do short block assembly or at least do all the bearing clearance work since they have the right micrometers to get all the clearances perfect. Haven't used plasti-gauge since the 70s.

You could also have them balance the rotating assembly while they're at it. The 1990 302HO was not perfect, close enough probably yea but we made it better.

Ed Curtis is up in the NE near you, he might be able to make a recommendation on a shop. Send him an email http://www.flowtechinduction.com