1965 mustang new rebuilt engine will not turn over
06-16-2012, 04:06 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: California
Posts: 6
1965 mustang new rebuilt engine will not turn over
I have a new rebuilt 302 in my 1965 ford mustang. After everything was put in, the engine will not turn. I tried turning the engine by hand and is hard, very hard. I took out the spark plugs and no help. I read a thread from 2006 with the same issue but it had no resolution. Anyone have the slightest idea what is going on here? if I turn it by hand, it's very hard and have to put some mucle in it. Changed the starter twice, changes the battery. The cables are good. I'm out of options. Help!!!
06-16-2012, 06:56 PM
#2
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 5,896
What are you using to turn the engine by hand? With a standard 12" ratchet wrench and 15/16" socket, it takes quite a bit of effort but should still be doable. With a longer ratchet it should be easy. You're doing it with the transmission in neutral/park, right? If it's a manual, did you put the clutch disc in backwards?
06-16-2012, 11:08 PM
#4
Since the engine was just assembled AND it is hard to turn over by hand, I would say that you most likely don't have sufficient clearance in your rod or main bearings.
Did you plasti-gage the bearing clearances? If so, what were the clearances?
If you loosened up all the rods then tried to rotate the engine by hand, that will give you more info.
If the engine still turns over hard, the problem is most likely in the main bearings. If the engine turns over easily, then the problem is in the rod bearings.
Then loosen the mains & try to turn the engine over by hand.
Whatever you do, don't try to start the engine in this condition, you will just send it to an early grave.
Take your time, trouble shoot it carefully and all will go well and you will have no regrets.
Who assembled the engine?
Was the purchased as a short block?
Did you have machining work done? Crank regrind? re-bored?
Did you plasti-gage the bearing clearances? If so, what were the clearances?
If you loosened up all the rods then tried to rotate the engine by hand, that will give you more info.
If the engine still turns over hard, the problem is most likely in the main bearings. If the engine turns over easily, then the problem is in the rod bearings.
Then loosen the mains & try to turn the engine over by hand.
Whatever you do, don't try to start the engine in this condition, you will just send it to an early grave.
Take your time, trouble shoot it carefully and all will go well and you will have no regrets.
Who assembled the engine?
Was the purchased as a short block?
Did you have machining work done? Crank regrind? re-bored?
06-17-2012, 02:43 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: California
Posts: 6
Yes in neutral. I would not think the clutch was put in backwards but I will double check that. The engine does however , seem like it wants to turn, but it sounds and looks like the is not enough juice or strength from the battery, but that was also changed. sounds like it's dragging Then stops.
06-17-2012, 02:48 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: California
Posts: 6
I also contacted the rebuilt shop and explained my issue. They have rebuilt a few engines for me in the past with no issues, and they claim to turn the engine as they rebuilt them. At this point I feel as if there is something I did wrong. I want to rule any possible issue out before I take it back to them for resolution.
06-17-2012, 03:48 PM
#7
Make sure that everything is disconnected accessory wise then try to turn it over.
Then remove the drive shaft, then try to rotate it.
If the above fails to locate the problem, it is most likely the rod or main bearings. I would "assume" that a legit builder would plasti-gage all the rod & main bearings before final assembly...... But maybe they didn't for some reason?
If the crank was reground, maybe the tolerances were off and there is a slight interference with the bearings. But again, plasti-gage would have shown this.
It could be something as simple as the machine shop using to big of a radius cutter on the edges of the bearing seats. This would not have shown up with the use of plasti-gage. This would do exactly what you are seeing.
Then remove the drive shaft, then try to rotate it.
If the above fails to locate the problem, it is most likely the rod or main bearings. I would "assume" that a legit builder would plasti-gage all the rod & main bearings before final assembly...... But maybe they didn't for some reason?
If the crank was reground, maybe the tolerances were off and there is a slight interference with the bearings. But again, plasti-gage would have shown this.
It could be something as simple as the machine shop using to big of a radius cutter on the edges of the bearing seats. This would not have shown up with the use of plasti-gage. This would do exactly what you are seeing.
06-18-2012, 11:02 AM
#10
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Goodyear, AZ
Posts: 1,674
As stated above, I bet that the clutch disc is installed incorrectly. this may prevent it from tunring over.
also, do you have the original z bar clutch linkage or have you converted it to cable or hydraulic?
I doubt that a builder would assemble a complete engine without turning it over. that is usually one of the first things that is checked once the rotating assembly is installed. Not that it doesnt happen though.
This sounds to me like a very simple thing that was just a small over sight when installng it.
take it back out and see if it turns over by hand with the plugs out.
Also, could it be an issue with the starter not lining up?
also, do you have the original z bar clutch linkage or have you converted it to cable or hydraulic?
I doubt that a builder would assemble a complete engine without turning it over. that is usually one of the first things that is checked once the rotating assembly is installed. Not that it doesnt happen though.
This sounds to me like a very simple thing that was just a small over sight when installng it.
take it back out and see if it turns over by hand with the plugs out.
Also, could it be an issue with the starter not lining up?