craig71springsport

Not to thread-jack, but how would you guys go about splicing into the heater blower wire? Just cut a small piece of insulation off and tape up when finished?

crunchyskippy

Craig - I've used wire tap connectors in the past with success where I didn't want to hack the stock wiring. Home Depot sells them in my area. Google for picture examples.

The_Dude

There are two small poles on the solenoid. One is switched for the starter, the other is a coil feed that gives the coil 12V while the starter is engaged. When the starter is not engaged, this wire is back fed from the coil with whatever voltage the resistor wire lets through. My guess is, this is the wire he's using, which is no better than connecting the the + side of the coil.
I've used this wire to power a relay, and that does work well.

wogeorge

You know, that all makes sense, but when testing it with the meter, it was on and off with the key. Out pf curiosity, could this be because it has been switched over to an electric start set up? Car is at tranny shop for a day or so but will definitely test again when she comes home. Keep up the info...i need all.i can get!

TexasAxMan

OK, but I have Vintage Air (so the blower isn't where it should be) and have hidden as much of my wiring as possible. So do I have to run a separate wire just for the coil? In Houston the choke is only on for a very short while most of the year.

What is the problem with wiring it to the coil +?

The_Dude

It's not 12V. You want the choke to open as fast as possible, so you want to give it the full 12V. That's why I don't use the stator post on the back of the alternator. It's only 7V. A relay is dead simple to wire. Then you have 12V under the hood for anything you need.