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302 crank and rods in a 289? looking for 400+ hp?

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Old 07-19-2012, 07:41 AM
  #11  
kenash
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Originally Posted by Zimbo
Hm.. will these heads fit on a 1966 289? I'm willing to buy them if they do! Also anyone know of a cheapish 100 or 75 NOS shot kit? I plan on wiring the switch to flip on at full throttle because I'll be using a gear vendors overdrive kit and don't feel like holding one button, steering, semi-auto shifting and hitting the gear vendor shift button at the same time
Hi,
Yes, they will. Topside, there is not much difference between 289/302 the blocks. AFR/TFS heads, are among the best affordable heads when properly setup. After you decide the attitude of your engine, the choice in heads is your next most important purchase.
Happy Motoring!
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Old 07-19-2012, 08:44 AM
  #12  
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Why Gear Vendors? It's probably cheaper/easier to use a modern OD transmission than to drop a Gear Vendors OD unit on the car.
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Old 07-19-2012, 07:44 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Starfury
Why Gear Vendors? It's probably cheaper/easier to use a modern OD transmission than to drop a Gear Vendors OD unit on the car.
Ya think I paid $100 for my 4R70W, then another $500 for the Bauman controller. An AOD would be a fraction of the price. But in the spirit of full disclosure I did have FB Performance build the trans to handle 600HP....just in case

Hang onto the old motor, find an 87-90 302HO as the base to build some power. If you find one in decent shape you can hang onto the forged pistons that came in that motor, drop in a custom cam (not $500 not sure where that number came from) with a set of AFR/TFS heads and you'll make a screamer. Have your machine shop balance the motor, mine was just OK from Ford.
Just don't expect that light 66 to handle a ton of HP and think about putting a 9" trac-loc rear into it, even then you'll have a hard time getting it to hook up. A friend of mine use to race his 66, when it hooked up the car would twist to much that the back window would blow out.

For the guys that say you can't make any real power with a 302, how's dyno'd @898 in a 8 sec fox body. All it took was a bit of money and a monster turbo

Last edited by mr_velocity; 07-19-2012 at 07:46 PM.
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Old 07-19-2012, 07:59 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by mr_velocity
Ya think I paid $100 for my 4R70W, then another $500 for the Bauman controller. An AOD would be a fraction of the price. But in the spirit of full disclosure I did have FB Performance build the trans to handle 600HP....just in case

Hang onto the old motor, find an 87-90 302HO as the base to build some power. If you find one in decent shape you can hang onto the forged pistons that came in that motor, drop in a custom cam (not $500 not sure where that number came from) with a set of AFR/TFS heads and you'll make a screamer. Have your machine shop balance the motor, mine was just OK from Ford.
Just don't expect that light 66 to handle a ton of HP and think about putting a 9" trac-loc rear into it, even then you'll have a hard time getting it to hook up. A friend of mine use to race his 66, when it hooked up the car would twist to much that the back window would blow out.

For the guys that say you can't make any real power with a 302, how's dyno'd @898 in a 8 sec fox body. All it took was a bit of money and a monster turbo
Hi,
"$500 for custom billet roller cam and supporting hardware", How was that derived...? About $300-$400 custom designed cam whose events for any given engine details are specific and, to cover the costs (on the lighter side of a quality) the valve train system in supporting the events from 2500 to 7000 Rs. (hyd-roller).
Just wanted to accurately describe how I arrived at what might have been perceived (quoted) as my comments. Happy Trails!
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Old 07-19-2012, 08:44 PM
  #15  
Zimbo
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Originally Posted by Starfury
Why Gear Vendors? It's probably cheaper/easier to use a modern OD transmission than to drop a Gear Vendors OD unit on the car.
Autocross and other reasons.. I have a GV unit on another car and I really like it.. Had it for a week and I'm in love with it.
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Old 07-19-2012, 08:45 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by kenash
Hi,
Yes, they will. Topside,
Happy Motoring!
Thanks!!
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Old 07-19-2012, 08:49 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 2+2GT
Just for some background here, have you ever driven a 400+ hp car? As impressive as the number sounds, one blip of the throttle can seriously kill you.

Listen to Bill Cosby's "200 Miles Per Hour". A classic. A sad footnote, however, is Cosby really did give the car back, and Shelby American did resell it, and the new owner did die in the car.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4Fpqi698Do
Yeah I drove a 648 HP car on a race track once.. on the street I drove a 450 HP cobra replica and I agree.. one blip can get you or even worse someone else killed! I plan on a 5 point harness for this car with a rollbar
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Old 07-20-2012, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by kenash
Hi,
"$500 for custom billet roller cam and supporting hardware", How was that derived...? About $300-$400 custom designed cam whose events for any given engine details are specific and, to cover the costs (on the lighter side of a quality) the valve train system in supporting the events from 2500 to 7000 Rs. (hyd-roller).
Just wanted to accurately describe how I arrived at what might have been perceived (quoted) as my comments. Happy Trails!
I misread, sorry about that. I was thinking just cam. No doubt the top end can be expensive. Here is what I spent on mine, started with a 1990 302HO short block, that with machine work and balancing was about $1000.

Hyd roller billet custom cam $375 (Ed Curtis)
Lunati valve spring kit $225
Comp Cams Steel Ultra-Pro Magnum Rockers: $349
Rollmaster Billet Timing Set: $135
Roller Bearing Cam Retaining Thrust Plate: $105
Morel Street Link-Type Hydraulic Roller Lifters: $349

Topped it off with TFS heads, Stealth Intake, Canton pan, FPA long tube headers and a 650 stage 5 carb from Bigs, would have to dig to find the costs on those. I also put a March serpentine kit on it but that was just a nice to have.
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Old 07-20-2012, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Zimbo
Yeah I drove a 648 HP car on a race track once.. on the street I drove a 450 HP cobra replica and I agree.. one blip can get you or even worse someone else killed! I plan on a 5 point harness for this car with a rollbar
Don't forget to replace the steering shaft spear with a collapsible shaft. Torque boxes and subframe connectors. The 66 is going to twist up with 400 hp if you manage to get the power to the road. I'm moving my battery to the trunk to try and give it a little better balance. What plans to do you have for braking?
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Old 11-11-2012, 02:47 PM
  #20  
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I'm following up on this build.. i've been looking at forged crankshafts (due to NOS and high compression) anyone know of a good crank brand that has a "ok" forged crank that'll fit?
I don't need a racing crank just one that'll hold up.. the budget for the crank is 600$ max.. also I'm open to a mild stroker 302 crank. what balancer do I need to put on it? 28oz? it's a 67 289 block.. at least from what the stamp says. it will be bored .30 over and like I said I'm open to a mild stoker 302 crank.. maybe like 325 or a bit less... around there.. I already picked out the stock length forged H-rods that I want and I just need a crank.
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