Carb float and mixture screw questions.
#1
Carb float and mixture screw questions.
Just cleaned and rebuilt carb (Autolite 2100 2v) and followed manual's recommendations for specs/measurements. Seems to be running well so far. Looking for feedback on what the symptoms of an improperly set float and mixture screws would be. I've turned the screws anywhere from 1 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns out while no real noticeable changes in rpms. Is that normal?
Also. . .I don't have the choke tube connected to the autochoke housing yet. Tube is broken off in the manifold. Does this mean the autochoke isn't working?
Also. . .I don't have the choke tube connected to the autochoke housing yet. Tube is broken off in the manifold. Does this mean the autochoke isn't working?
#2
I like your questions short and concise!
The way i was taught to adjust the idle screws and practiced in my days of being a professional tune up man is:
1. Set the idle speed to around 700-800 rpm
2. Using a tach or vacuum gauge adjust each needle until the gauge drops just a little then reverse a little bit 1/8 turn max.
Also, the choke tube has a small vacuum leak by design to pull the heated air up from the manifold. If you're not going to put a tube in you need to block the choke housing port.
The auto choke is working if when you depress the throttle to the floor (1 time) when cold the choke butterfly should go closed. What isn't going to happen is a quick warmup as the tube provides the heat to warm the bimetallic spring in the choke cap. this will result in the fast idle staying too high for a long time.
I suggest you replace the tube as soon as you can.
The way i was taught to adjust the idle screws and practiced in my days of being a professional tune up man is:
1. Set the idle speed to around 700-800 rpm
2. Using a tach or vacuum gauge adjust each needle until the gauge drops just a little then reverse a little bit 1/8 turn max.
Also, the choke tube has a small vacuum leak by design to pull the heated air up from the manifold. If you're not going to put a tube in you need to block the choke housing port.
The auto choke is working if when you depress the throttle to the floor (1 time) when cold the choke butterfly should go closed. What isn't going to happen is a quick warmup as the tube provides the heat to warm the bimetallic spring in the choke cap. this will result in the fast idle staying too high for a long time.
I suggest you replace the tube as soon as you can.
#3
Thanks, very helpful. I hopefully will be drilling out the broken tube from the manifold this weekend and hooking up properly.
How about the float? What are symptoms of an improperly set float? The only issue I have right now is a slight hesitation when first accelerating.
How about the float? What are symptoms of an improperly set float? The only issue I have right now is a slight hesitation when first accelerating.
#4
And while I am at it, I have choke plate questions. When the car is cold, should the plate be completely closed? Should it open when the throttle is depressed? Once in a while I'll have a hard time starting the car. Each time this happens, I notice the choke plate is fully closed. I then open it slightly (with my finger) and the car starts.
#5
And while I am at it, I have choke plate questions. When the car is cold, should the plate be completely closed? Should it open when the throttle is depressed? Once in a while I'll have a hard time starting the car. Each time this happens, I notice the choke plate is fully closed. I then open it slightly (with my finger) and the car starts.
If this component is malfunctioning it will result in what you've described.
Last edited by jlg2002; 08-23-2012 at 05:44 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jwog666
Pipes, Boost & Juice
11
12-27-2021 08:09 PM
breaking
Audio/Visual Electronics
5
10-02-2015 01:27 PM
treesloth
New Member Area
4
09-28-2015 07:03 AM