Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Quick welding question on my mustang

Old 08-23-2012, 02:02 PM
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WarrenW
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Question Quick welding question on my mustang

Hi everyone,

I plan to purchase a Mig with shielding gas welder this weekend hopefully. I want to weld sheet metal by spot welding but I also need to weld support brackets. I looked on HopeDepot.com at the welders they have and there is a Lincoln Weld Pak 125 HD wire-feed for $419. It says it is 30-125 amps for welding and is 110ac. Will this be strong enough for some things more than basic sheet metal? Like if I need to weld the pillars up front, will this work?

Thanks for your help!!

Warren
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Old 08-23-2012, 02:06 PM
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Coupe
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I built my car with a Millermatic 135, its a 110 unit and it works fine for sheet stock (and lets face it thats what these cars are) but to be honest I wish it had a bit more grunt.

I would try to get just a bit bigger if I were you, im sure that one would work but what about the next project? Building trailers or making a bumper for a 4x4 project ten years from now it will make all the difference.
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Old 08-23-2012, 05:35 PM
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groho
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This is gonna get expensive so be patient. Buy a 140 rather than the 125. It's the limit for a 110V welder, anything beyond that is 220v and its only a few dollars more. Stick with a brand name, Lincoln or Miller. A bottle of 25/75 argon mix is roughly $100 to $150 in initial cost, but $25-35 to refill. Don't forget the regulator. Spend $60 on a 25 foot 10 ga extension cord. To maximize performance its best to use a dedicated 20amp receptacle. Remember, when welding galvanized metal, grind the coating off both sides before welding (PITA). Always have a good ground. Have fun. My 135 Miller has handled anything I've thrown at it, including 3/16 plate with a single pass. Prep is 90%, welding is 10% of the work.
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Old 08-23-2012, 05:40 PM
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I actually like the 110V over the 220V because you can weld very delicate work. 220 is great if you do allot of 1/8" and 1/4" stock (.120, .188, or .250 thick). Rarely are you going to see metal beyond 3/16" thick on a car unless you're doing older frame work or chassis and roll cage stuff.
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Old 08-23-2012, 06:36 PM
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I would also add that you can use CO2 as a gas, it's cheap and actually allows for a hotter weld. I worked in a fab shop that used it with a flux wire for maximum resistance to contamination and the high heat.

I used it myself because we had a bar when I was younger and we always had a spare CO2 tank.
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:22 PM
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LynnBob Mustang
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I would go with a Hobart 140 mig handler welder, It will be more then enough that your Mustang will ever need. You can get them for around $500 at Tractor supply or places on line.
Lynn

Last edited by LynnBob Mustang; 08-23-2012 at 07:25 PM.
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Old 08-24-2012, 08:18 AM
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Shrinkdude
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Been looking at the Eastwood welders and seem to have good reviews.
http://www.eastwood.com/metal-fabrication/welding.html
Once my old Century welder craps out I'll probably get one of these.
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Old 08-24-2012, 09:40 AM
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I use a Hobart 140 and have welded up to 3/8 metal. The duty cycle is low for that heavy of a metal but for "small" 3/8 jobs it does great. Key is that all metal is perfectly clean.
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Old 08-24-2012, 09:49 AM
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WarrenW
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Thanks for all of the feedback. I looked at the Lincoln 140 and it seems the way to go! Its about $120 more than the 125 model but sounds like the difference is worth it.
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Old 08-24-2012, 09:51 AM
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05screaminyellow
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I was in your shoes a few years ago and i bought a 110 welder it was ok for body panels etc but soon realised it was not a very versatile machine so i sold it and bought my miller 180 it can go as low as 30 amp and high as 180 amps

I absolutely love this machine and the auto set is a nice feature ... ya its more $$ but when i take into consideration the cost of the 110 unit i bought and sold for a pretty heavy loss this machine is not that much more



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