jonahdeich

So I have been working on the 289 and its smoking from the exhaust again. Its blue and puffs during start up and heavy acceleration. I decided that I am going to bite the bullet to go ahead and get everything I have been wanting to do, done this winter. First off, I want to get new heads, but I don't want to spend more than 900 dollars for them and I want them to boost performance as well. Any suggestions? I could rebuild the old ones but I think that they would be to much work. They need valve guides, seals, and probably a valve job. Second, I want to get 3.55 gears for the rear end and Posi what is the best way to convert buy the whole differential? Last I want to convert the car to manual. I want it to be a 4 or 5 speed and would like to know which way is the cheaper route? Anyone have any suggestions on how I could knock any of this out for cheap?

67mustang302

What's your budget and what kind of performance do you want?

barnett468

.
some options are:

rebuilt ported e7 heads from powerheads.com = $800.00

get head bolt kit and rocker arms or buy eddy e street heads from summit for $950.00 if you run a small non roller cam.

top loader 4 speed and t5 5 speed will be around the same price . . get a junkyard t5 from an 85' and newer 6 or 8 cylinder Mustang, Fairmont, T-bird, and Cougar, to name a few . . these came with the better "world class' t5 . . the pre 85's had the non world class model if i remrember correcty . . don't get a 4 cyinder one.

get an 84 and later bell v8 bell housing and flywheel. . a cable kit from mustang steve . . a centerforce street disc and a pressure plate or a clutch kit from ford tracing . . remove the under dash clutch spring.

.

jonahdeich

I have been trying to see the power heads but the website will not load for me... Is that just me? I am probably going to be running the C9OZ-6250-C cam. My budget is 2500 for the tranny, 900ish for the heads, and hoping to get the gears done for really cheap but I don't know.

barnett468

i would buy either us gear or motive gears and make sure they are made in either the usa or itaky . . call strange engineering for info . . do not use the koyo bearings, use timkens.

ok, power heads may be out of biz . . e street or gt40p heads ported and milled to 56 cc's if you have flat top pistons . . i would also mill the intake faces .010" each so the intake fits for sure if you mill them to 56 cc's.

i would not use that cam . . i would use a comp 268h.

eddy perf rpm intake.

quick fuel 650 cfm annual booster vacuum secondary ss type carb.
.

69mach1377

And don't forget the snowball effect...

MustangDudley

jonadiech;

I just completed installing a 1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe 8.8 rear end into my '66 Mustang. The Turbo Coupe manual tranny rears come with 3.55 gears, traction-loc, and disc brakes (although some do have drums). (The automatics come with 3.73 gear rear end)

I paid $200 for mine with the 3.55 gears, and rebuilt it and modified it myself, including narrowing it to retain the 1966 Mustang's OEM flange to flange width of 57.25".

(By simply doing the 1984 left Ford Ranger axles swap, you get 59.25". I could NOT afford to give up fender clearance, so I narrowed it to stay with the stock width at the wheel flanges of 57.25".)

I do NOT need any special adapters, spacers, non-calipers, hoses, etc. My rebuild/conversion retains ALL stock 1988 Ford T/C parts!!! I have detailed measurements, a comprehensive parts list, and a complete photo library of my steps. Here is a link of my photo library; search of the rear end conversion if it doesn't come up first;

http://s1110.photobucket.com/user/av...?sort=6&page=3

For more detailed information, it would be easier if you just called me. I can walk you through it fairly easily.

Dudley
352-206-6867

MustangDudley

Oh, I forgot to mention.....I also am doing the transmission change from my stock 3 speed manual to a '86 Mustang V8 T5 swap, too. Because I will be installing headers, I have opted to make my own hydraulic clutch system. I just completed this project. Cost is just over $100.

FYI, I am installing a '84 roller 351W with 9.5 to 1 pistons and a .500 lift cam, with roller lifters, and a 650 cfm Holley/ vacuum secondaries, and headers.