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1970 mustang griffin radiator

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Old 10-28-2012, 02:04 PM
  #1  
jdfe
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Location: texas
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Default 1970 mustang griffin radiator

I've got a 1970 mustang that had the smaller radiator bolted to the core support, we bought the upper and lower mounts so we could put a griffin radiator in it. I think I have the lower mounts in the right spot, there was one threaded hole on each strut rod bracket and it matches a picture I found of a 68 but I'm not sure. I've got a stock 3 row to fit, it's tight but fits, but the griffin(7-568bc-fax) hits the core support so the top bracket will not go on.
Griffin told us this was a drop in replacement but it ain't looking like it.

Any pictures of the lower mounts would be helpful, thanks.
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Old 10-28-2012, 03:02 PM
  #2  
BuckeyeDemon
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Default

it sounds like you have the lower mounts correct.

i have a griffin in my 69. i had to modify the lower mounts to shift it inward (and slightly enlarge the cups) and also modify the upper in the hidden area where it fastens to the radiator support (could probably just use washers as spacers and order slightly longer bolts).
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:55 AM
  #3  
lthawthorne
 
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Default Experience with Griffin

I have a 70 Mach 1 351C in SE Texas. Major upgrades this year included Classic Air (good kit) and Dakota Digital dash (great kit), so programmed an alarm point of 200F. Calibrated the DD temp sender using 212F boiling water, on the money. Engine ran 210 to 215 using brass radiator 2" core sized for 427 engine (ie, oversized for a 351C), in August in Tx; factory high temp alarm never came on but it is set at 247F. Still, worried about overheating on my run through desert to CA next August to see Pebble Beach car show.

Installed Griffin 3" core. Temp has yet to go above 190 with a/c on and Texas heat. Even getting caught in traffic after an hour at interstate speeds in August in Texas never above 200F. Griffin gets the job done, end of story.

To install I had to widen the radiator opening in the bulkhead. Not enough room for hacksaw or sawsall. Easiest way to do it was to score the metal with a 2" cutoff wheel in a small mini grinder, then bend metal back and forth til it broke, then grind off the sharp edge. Easier and safer than sawsall, didn't have to pull the a/c or trans coolers. I also made (really reused) 1" angled aluminum brackets to adapt the bulkhead to the new radiator. Reused the plastic shroud and flexlite fan (belt driven).

Otherwise: Monster AOD, Unisteer power R&P steering, Currie 3.50 TrueTrac.

Be careful to maintain clearance between fan and radiator of 1".
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