66 GT Fastback Restore
12-29-2012, 09:38 AM
#12
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Georgia
Posts: 12
12-30-2012, 10:11 AM
#14
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 710
OK, after taking a rusty 65 FB and getting it as perfect as I can the best advice I can give is to bite the bullet and buy and install the largest parts you can, like a one piece floor pan and possibly the trunk floor with transition pan already attached.
If every thing is rotted out and you need to remove the tail light assembly anyway this big part can be a time saver, and the fact that the shock mount is separate from the part is a big plus. I left my original cross member/shock mount in the car since it was perfect and wanted to keep it in place for alignment, but I had to remove the new one from the new transition panel because on THAT PART the shock mount is already welded to the new transition.
I went with just the transition panel and trunk separately but in retrospect I would have made quicker progress with the part shown above.
I used this and the shock mount is already welded in, and that sux for installation, especially since mine was fine and was holding the car square.
If every thing is rotted out and you need to remove the tail light assembly anyway this big part can be a time saver, and the fact that the shock mount is separate from the part is a big plus. I left my original cross member/shock mount in the car since it was perfect and wanted to keep it in place for alignment, but I had to remove the new one from the new transition panel because on THAT PART the shock mount is already welded to the new transition.
I went with just the transition panel and trunk separately but in retrospect I would have made quicker progress with the part shown above.
I used this and the shock mount is already welded in, and that sux for installation, especially since mine was fine and was holding the car square.
Last edited by Coupe; 12-30-2012 at 10:16 AM.
12-30-2012, 10:24 AM
#15
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 710
I started from the back. I had to replace the rear frame rail ends due to rot and swelling. When it comes to that dont get intimidated, once the trunk floor is out you just need to use a plumb bob and a tape measure to locate the existing one and then cut it off where the metal gets solid again (I dont like to cut more frame off than I need to).
Once you have the new part cut to the same length as the part you cut off you drill some holes on the sides of the new and old frame and lay steel inside the frame rails to make an overlap inside the frame and plug weld them from the outside and stitch the inside, then weld the seam and dress it down. The WELD AT THE SEAM WILL BE COSMETIC if the inside of the frame is welded properly, so you can dress it down and nobody will see it.
You mention the rear torque boxes being bad, if everything under the car is perforated you may even want to do the full chassis replacement. I have not done this yet, but I would think it to be a huge time saver. You can actually find these at big swap meets (I would use one for a ragtop car for added stiffness)
Once you have the new part cut to the same length as the part you cut off you drill some holes on the sides of the new and old frame and lay steel inside the frame rails to make an overlap inside the frame and plug weld them from the outside and stitch the inside, then weld the seam and dress it down. The WELD AT THE SEAM WILL BE COSMETIC if the inside of the frame is welded properly, so you can dress it down and nobody will see it.
You mention the rear torque boxes being bad, if everything under the car is perforated you may even want to do the full chassis replacement. I have not done this yet, but I would think it to be a huge time saver. You can actually find these at big swap meets (I would use one for a ragtop car for added stiffness)
12-31-2012, 05:09 PM
#16
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Georgia
Posts: 12
I got the passenger side front torque box installed last night ( I know this is not a stock piece for a 66' but I think in the name of safety it is ok) plus some additional pieces. The rear frame rails look to be pretty solid. I will need to do a little work around the rear seat area. I am still trying ti get this picture thing down so bear with me.
