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Engine Rebuild

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Old 12-18-2012, 06:32 PM
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66MustangConvertible
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Default Engine Rebuild

We just had the engine of our 66 mustang convertible, which had a 302 V8 in it. I need to know everything I need to do the first time we run the engine. I was told to keep it idling for at least 15 minutes the first time we start it and to get a zinc additive for the oil in it. Is there anything else I need to do? Another question that I have is on the bottle for the zinc additive it says empty the oil after 1000 miles, but I don't think I will reach a 1000 miles on the mustang for at least a year. Should I change it earlier than that or does it not matter?
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Old 12-19-2012, 07:15 AM
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kenash
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Originally Posted by 66MustangConvertible
We just had the engine of our 66 mustang convertible, which had a 302 V8 in it. I need to know everything I need to do the first time we run the engine. I was told to keep it idling for at least 15 minutes the first time we start it and to get a zinc additive for the oil in it. Is there anything else I need to do? Another question that I have is on the bottle for the zinc additive it says empty the oil after 1000 miles, but I don't think I will reach a 1000 miles on the mustang for at least a year. Should I change it earlier than that or does it not matter?
Hi,
Assuming your newly rebuilt engine is running a flat tappet hydraulic cam.....
Add 30W oil with your additive. Keep in mind, you want to run this engine "uninterrupted" for as long as it's necessary for the initial break-in. You can "Goggle" the technique, but the idea is to fire the engine right away, with no fluid leaks and get it up to temps, ASAP, all the while varying the RPMs from 1500 to 2500, or so. Because during the initial start-up it will take some minutes for the T/S to open, I prefer to fill the rad with plain water initially in case there are leaks. I leave the T/S housing off, while adding water to the rad. I watch for the fluid to reach the base of the T/S housing, then, install the T/S and housing and continue adding the water to the rad. Adding the water in this way, allows as much air as possible to escape the block and reduce any chances of puking, over heating, boiling etc. from hot spots within the block.
Good Luck!

Last edited by kenash; 12-19-2012 at 07:19 AM.
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Old 12-19-2012, 03:16 PM
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jlg2002
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+1 with kenash. solid approach. you don't want to just idle the engine after start. I try to do it by firing it up and letting it run at choke fast idle (2000-25000 RPM max) for the time period it will take to warm up (about 2-4 minutes). Look for leaks and listen for noises. If all is OK then blip the throttle to 3000 or so quickly to get it off the fast idle cam. From there I set the idle to less than 850 and check engine static timing (8-12 deg BTDC) and dwell (27-30) vacuum hose off the advance. Once that's done slowly at a 500 rpm/second rate or so idle to 2000 -2500 RPM randomly for a minute or two. then back to idle for final idle mixture setting and idle speed set.

Last edited by jlg2002; 12-19-2012 at 03:19 PM.
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