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1965 GT manual disc to power disc??

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Old 01-22-2013, 07:47 PM
  #11  
Alan's Classic
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Should i scrap this proportioning valve even if it is honed? It has a couple pits.

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Old 01-23-2013, 06:24 AM
  #12  
chockostang
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Originally Posted by Alan's Classic
Should i scrap this proportioning valve even if it is honed? It has a couple pits.

It should be ok.

The piston needs to move freely with the seals installed, and will.

If the seals have a TINY bit off seepage that doesn't hurt a thing. It is all internal. The seepage in really not much different that the fluid traveling through the piston.

The cap seals should contain the fluid (If there is no deep pitting in body, and cap).

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Old 02-02-2013, 08:32 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by chockostang
It should be ok.

The piston needs to move freely with the seals installed, and will.

If the seals have a TINY bit off seepage that doesn't hurt a thing. It is all internal. The seepage in really not much different that the fluid traveling through the piston.

The cap seals should contain the fluid (If there is no deep pitting in body, and cap).

Dan @ Chockostang
Thanks for the feed back. I went ahead and rebuilt it. It went well and moves freely. No fluid on the system yet.

Also got the dual bowl MC installed and lines connected.







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Old 02-03-2013, 05:02 PM
  #14  
chockostang
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Originally Posted by Alan's Classic
Thanks for the feed back. I went ahead and rebuilt it. It went well and moves freely. No fluid on the system yet.

Also got the dual bowl MC installed and lines connected.







GREAT!

The seeping will be internal, nothing you will see.

The TINY bit of fluid that would pass in the bore from the pitting is nothing.

Dan @ Chockostang
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Old 04-05-2013, 07:33 AM
  #15  
Alan's Classic
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OK, I've got everything mocked up and now there is about a 1/2" of pedal play before the rod enguages the MC. I used the original push rod.

Kit that I used.


I called CJ Pony parts and they want to know the length of my pushrod. Everything is original in the car and no spacers on the firewall.

Has anyone ran into this?
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Old 04-05-2013, 02:44 PM
  #16  
gjz30075
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I think your best bet is to use an adjustable pushrod. Can't remember where I got mine but it was needed when I upgraded my GT mc to the '74 maverick dual.
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Old 04-06-2013, 05:32 PM
  #17  
chockostang
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Originally Posted by gjz30075
I think your best bet is to use an adjustable pushrod. Can't remember where I got mine but it was needed when I upgraded my GT mc to the '74 maverick dual.
A adjustable push rod on a 74 Maverick (MC 36440) will do nothing but adjust the pedal heigth.

Has nothing to do with pedal travel.

Dan @ Chockostang
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:09 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by gjz30075
I think your best bet is to use an adjustable pushrod. Can't remember where I got mine but it was needed when I upgraded my GT mc to the '74 maverick dual.
That will fix the problem. Read what I found below. BTW thanks.

Originally Posted by chockostang
A adjustable push rod on a 74 Maverick (MC 36440) will do nothing but adjust the pedal heigth.

Has nothing to do with pedal travel.

Dan @ Chockostang
Thanks Dan, that is basically what I'm wanting to do. The brake pedal is about an inch below the clutch pedal. I believe a 1/4" longer rod will do that.

I was sold this Scott Drake piece and I will be sending it back. I don't like the way it fits and the way it changes the rod arc. It doesn't add the length to the rod.





Pedal at rest against MC



Pedal pulled up against stop.



I found this rod for a 67-69 Mustang. It is 1/4" longer and looks to be the same design.



Thoughts??
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