Ivan.Cagle89D

I have a 1968 Mustang coupe with a 289... i've had it for some time now but just been enjoying the ride.. now i'm in Afghanistan and been thinking about it a lot, while my dad babysits it for me... and i never got the chance to really get into it cause i was always babying it.. i'm starting to wonder what kind of horsepower i should expect out of it when i get home and dyno it...

here is the info on the car that i have, and hopefulyl you can use this to base my next few questions off of...

289 engine block bored 040 over, installed hypereutectic aluminum flat top pistons, seal power rings, crankshaft turned 10/10 all new clevite bearings new freeze plugs. new cam, cam bearing, new high volume oil pump.. 1966 289 heads, had 1.840" intake and 1.500" exh valves, installed bronze valve guides seals, new double valve springs, 3/8 screw in studs, harland sharp full roller rockers, morose valve covers and air cleaner, mallory electronic distributor and coil.. new water pump, new 4 row radiator, all new water hoses, holley 600 CFM carb, holley street dominator intake, walker tri-ys headers, 2" aluminized exhuast, glass pack mufflers, new battery, starter, starter solenoid, alternator, all new battery cables, new fan bely, new battery box, rebuilt transmission with B&M shift kit, front end new OEM coil springs and parches, new tie rod ends, new ball joints, new front floor pans Por-15 put on front and back floor pans, Rear end new mustang GT leaf spring, all new brakes, wheel cylinders, brake spring kit, new 3.55 posi rear end, new gas tank, 11 body replaced front fenders, new fiberglass deck lid and quarter extension, fiberglass side scoops, new front bumper, new door handles, all new interior, dash pad, head liner, seat covers, door panels, replaced rubber door seals, rebuilt heater box, new heater control cables, 1977 thunderbird mirrors, new tires, american racing 14/8 rims..



thats what i've got form the guy who built it.. that was in the glove box.

i heard b&m shift kits will wear down my parts and only in a matter of time ruin my transmission and motor.. any input on that?

any idea what kind of horsepower i should expect? just a best guess i know you guys aren't human dynos or anything... just experienced most of you...

my rear tires rub on hard bumps or any bump if i have a person in the back on that very rare occasion... but should i just get some air shocks? or get it lifted a tiny bit?

an old friend of mine read it breifly and said the high volume oil pump was unneccesary, and reason he might of said that, or the reason the guy would put it on there?

what would i need to do to turn it into a stroker, like 331 or what ever i could get out of it... thanks!

thanks for your time guys, i put up some pictures you should be able to check out if your interested, on my profile.. if i did it right

Al Newman

Ivan,
First, if you are in the military, I would like to extend my thanks to you for your service.
I don't have a lot of experience with a B&M shift kit per se, but generally shift kits are used where the motor and tranny get a bit of flogging now and then. I can see where that will wear things out quicker, but I am not sure the shift kit is the problem. It is merely a piece of the performance picture.
There was no info included about the camshaft profile, and that more than anything else will give a good indication of horsepower.
Tires hitting the fender/wheelhouse would indicate that perhaps they are too tall or wide or both. I would suggest replacing the rear leaf springs with something a bit heavier. Shocks should NEVER be used to alter the ride height of the vehicle. They are not designed for that task.
High pressure or high flow oil pumps are only needed on worn out motors and are completely unnecessary on fresh ones. The high volume pump will use more horsepower to operate and will add a bit of heat to the oil, not to mention that you could experience oil leaks.
A stroker motor requires as a minimum a crankshaft and different pistons along with some block modifications at times. If your motor is relatively fresh, it probably is not worth stroking.
Just my two cents.
Best,
Al

Ivan.Cagle89D

Thanks for the info Al!

So should i leave the high volume oil pump on there or try a regular one? I honestly don't know how long its been since it's been built, i would guess a couple years.. as far as the camshaft i have no info on it, wish i did.. i generally am really nice to it just like to hear the rumble and cruise! but all my buddies are getting classics and like new challengers and stuff and are starting to get competitive so i don't know where i stand lol.

one more thing, it's in the paint shop right now, whats a good number as far as clear coats? the guy told me he usually does 2-4 coats of clear coat.. any suggestions?

andrewmp6

Yeah air shocks are a big no no on a unibody,I would buy new springs or have yours rearched locally,2 to 4 coats of clear is the normal just depends how much shine you want to the finish.A show car that's like a mirror is probably 6 coats or more of clear when you cut and buff you do remove some of the clear coat so thick to start with can help.

Al Newman

If the car were mine, I would replace the oil pump. The suggestion about re-arching the springs is good. I have done that several times on Falcons with good success. I had one leaf replaced with a new one in order to maintain the arch longer. Mustangs Plus sells spring kits for a number of purposes and rides. High, low, stiff, stiffer, etc.
Best,
Al

Ivan.Cagle89D

Alright thanks guys, i'm still a bit of a noob on this kind of stuff.. is that something i could do with some good online guidence or should i pay for it to be done? so should i try to get what i have "rearched" or fixed somehow.. or just get a new set? i'll check out that website Al!

Al Newman

I think you will find that new springs may actually be cheaper than having your present springs re-arched. The only instance where I would favor re-arching would be that leaf springs are not available for the vehicle I'm working on. Then again, re-arching your present springs can set the curb height of the rear of the car just about anywhere you wish it to be, whereas new springs will be whatever they will be.
Changing the oil pump is, of course, done under the car, and that is not always pleasant or easy. The pan must be removed. The lower crossmember and sway bar must be removed to remove the pan. Other restrictions will need addressing depending on the vehicle.
Best,
Al