Al Newman

IMHO, an electric fan will be a step in the wrong direction. Water wetter is either praised or cussed, there does not seem to be a middle ground. I have used it in place of anti-freeze in road race setups, primarily to keep the slick anti-freeze off the track in the event of a problem. The water wetter will provide a level of lubrication to the water pump. Higher pressure radiator caps can (not always) produce leaks in older radiators or radiators not designed for the additional pressure. Sorry to be so negative, but most everything has a down side.
Try this. Remove the radiator cap and start the motor. Let it run until it gets to operating temp. Visually check to see if flow is noticeable in the radiator. Also check to see if a lot of bubbles are present or a wisp of smoke/steam is visible. Little or no flow suggets a thermostat problem or some obstruction in the cooling system. Bubbles and/or smoke indicate a blown head gasket.
Best,
Al

Tilley

Okay...here's what I've done:

1. Took off stock 4-blade fan and put in a 6-blade Flexlite race fan.

2. Took off 180* t-stat and put in a 160* hi-flow t-stat.

3. Flushed engine and radiator and filled with 100% distilled water and a bottle of Water Wetter.

4. Heater core was blocked (project for another day), put in new hose running through the carburetor. This was why carb was vapor locking.

5. New shroud.


I drove it about 10 miles in town and it never got above 169*. Tomorrow is real test...freeway driving, then 25 miles through the hills of Camp Pendelton.

Al Newman

A couple of comments , then I'm outa here. First, the 160 degree thermostat is no improvement at all over the 180 degree. It just makes the heater run cooler in the winter. Second, I am unfamiliar with the fan you mention, but, if it is a fiberglass bladed setup, ditch it as soon as you can. Those fans have a long history of coming apart at the absolute wrong time. Third, you now have NO protection against cold weather as the water wetter is NOT an anti freeze. Just a guess on my part, but, if you will test the thermostat you removed, I think you will find it defective. Good move on flushing the radiator.
Best,
Al

tx65coupe

I would run the stock spec'd T stat. A cold thermostat will cause less than desireable fuel economy, as well as increase engine wear. Also, avoid fail safe types.

I also see no point to switching to an electric fan. Stay with a rigid fan.

I always run 50/50 antifreeze/water.

Have you verified the temperature with an infarred thermometer?

Tilley

Today was the real test and I was very nervous on how she would handle the heat.

When I drove the car on Monday, he weather conditions were the same as today. when I got to work, the temperature on the block was 240 degrees.

Today with all the new parts and work done to it...175 degrees!

That is a difference of 65 degrees!!!

The car drove beautifully.

All temps were taken using an infrared laser temp gun. I really don't worry about freezing because I live near the beach in sunny Southern California.

I am going to drive it and see how the car reacts to such a lower temperature. so what do you guys think?

JAGGUY

IMHO your actual experience with your car is all that counts, no two cars, locations, uses etc are the same. If it works, it works.

I like the fan you are using. Did you use the stock spacer?

Tilley

Thanks for your comment. Yeah I used the stock spacer. The fan is a Flexlite race fan. At Autozone or O'Reillys they wantedalmost $50.00, but I got it at "JEGS" online for $26.88. the shipping charge was $10, so the whole thing was $36 and change, delivered by FedEx.

Today was day two driving it to work. Highest temp today was 170 degrees. <---------awesome fan that Flexlite...

Tilley

Question for those who have a radiator overflow tank:

Is your radiator always topped off to the very top of the tank when the car is cold, or is there about a 1" space from the top?

JAGGUY

Always full to the seal on the cap.

Tilley

It has been almost a week with my new set-up, and I am very happy with it. The highest my temp got in traffic was about 175 degrees. I spoke to the speed shop that built my motor if the lower temp would cause problems with the oil or performance, and they said no because I use that Rotella 15-40 motor oil. If I was using a straight 30 weight, there would be a problem.

The biggest things that turned my car from a 240 degrees heat-beast to a 165 degree Pony had to do with a combination of things:

-went from the stock 4-blade to a 6-blade fan.

-utilized a shroud in conjunction with the new fan.

-went with a 160* "hi-flow" t-stat.

-flushed the motor/radiator and used 100% distilled water with water-wetter.


My average temp in normal driving is between 165 and 170 degrees. The carb temp is about 103 degrees...no more vapor lock.


I am writing this for anyone like myself who has been having problems with overheating, and nothing seems to fix the problem.

My main problem which caused the overheating was a combination of several things.

1. The place that built my motor increased the horse power by 45hp. That automatically will increase the temperature, so you need to increase the cooling system output. I did not.

2. My t-stat housing was warped causing a very small leak, but more importantly, a pressure leak in what should be a closed system.

3. The 4-blade fan is inadequate...period.

4. I did not have a shroud.

5. Heater core was blocked.

6. I was running about a mixture of 70% Prestone antifreeze to 30% tap water. Antifreeze does not conduct heat as well as water.

7. And lastly, I had a string of 4 bad radiators that had small leaks. China rocks! My radiator works great now, but some day I would like to try that "Champion" aluminum radiator.


I hope this helps.