120mm

I had initially read through the CSRP disk conversion kit and thought I understood it.

But now that I am to installing the master cylinder, proportioner and distro block, I am baffled, completely.

I thought the proportioner replaced the distro block, so I removed it.

Reading through the CSRP instructions, they may as well be written in Swahili. They are written like an guy in a small town giving directions to someone who has never been there.

"Well, drive 3 miles, to the place where the Dairy Queen used to be 49 years ago before it burned down; then take a right until you get to where the Smith house useta be. Then back up 300 feet and turn by where old man Parson hung himself by that old oak tree that burned down 300 years ago.

Seriously. Maybe we could put an f'ing PICTURE OR SOMETHING THAT SHOWS THE G*d D*mned locations of how the thing is supposed to look????

Anyone have a picture of how the set up is supposed to look? It would help me out immensely.

120mm

So, did a little more reading and trying, fitting and cussing and I gotta wonder: Why did CSRP go with a 7/16" by whoever knows what fitting on the front brake reservoir, when the original was 1/2"-20"? Or at least that is what mine were.

Other question: They provide one plug for the distro block. Unfortunately, there are two holes that need a plugging for the rear brakes. And obtw, the line that you have that used to run from the reservoir to the rear brake portion of the distro block? The fitting there doesn't fit as well.

Either I am 180 degrees out on this, or I do not understand how and why this part of the kit is the way it is.

LynnBob Mustang

Yeah, TBH, I too am kind of baffled by this part of the install myself after looking at the instructions I down loaded and printed out. I was scratching my head and saying WTH?

I too would like to see some clarity on this as I will be doing this soon myself.
Lynn

120mm

Okay, I am a researcher by trade, so have been doing some. First, the red residual pressure valve never came with my kit.

I am willing to bet there is no need to plug either of the rear outlets on my distro valve, rather, I can just hook the proportioner into the rear brake line and call it good. As far as I know, the front and rear brakes do not "swap spit" in the two bowl system. If I'm wrong, I'm screwed, of course. Since I lost the plug.

This was definitely a bad project to try to do Easter weekend. I will contact CSRP for help.

Drew

Starfury

Degins (who can be found lurking here periodically) is usually pretty good with support.

First of all, plan on replumbing all of your front brake hard lines, including those running to your existing distribution block. It makes life easier in the long run.

Second, are you using the factory-style distribution/proportioning combo block, or are you using the aftermarket in-line, adjustable prop valve with the stock distribution block?

If the former, you replace your existing dist block with the combo block, plumb the red residual pressure valve inline with the rear brakes after the block, and you're good to go.

If the latter, you plumb the residual pressure valve and the adjustable prop valve into the rear brake lines after the block, then you should be good to go.

You may need to make several trips to the parts store to get the appropriate adapter fittings or adapter lines. I would have saved myself some time had I taken the block and m/c in to the parts desk before bolting them to the vehicle. Don't fret over small fitting changes. Most problems can be solved by adding adapter fittings or by simply replumbing the lines, which is often the better idea.

I bent all of the hard lines on the front of my '67, and they turned out better than the factory lines. Start by bending some wire hangars to the appropriate shapes on the vehicle, then remove them and bend the lines to match, carefully fitting the lines on the vehicle before and after each bend. The m/c adapter lines are a bit tricky to get bent properly, but some elbow grease and a socket (placed in the inside corner of a bend) will help you pull it off without kinking the lines.

Now, what plug are you guys talking about? Iirc, there's one plug on the rear of the combo/dist block, but it shouldn't be removed. Everything else needs to be used. The front of the m/c goes to the rear port on the combo/dist block, then off to the residual pressure valve and the rear brakes. The rear of the m/c goes to the front of the block, then off to the front brakes. If you can take a pic of what you've got and post it, I can direct you on how to properly plumb it. Unfortunately I don't have my car here atm, but I can take a look at it tomorrow and maybe shed some more light on the situation.

120mm

Dennis was all over getting me some help. I received a prompt reply via e-mail, once I thought to actually ask the question.

.

I am definitely going to re-cut and re-flare the new short line I bought and call it good. And yep, I replaced all the brake line.

Bending brake lines is easy. First, none of the brake lines have difficult bends, really, as they are sectioned off for easy replacement. The grommets to pass through body panels are the worst, and that's just a matter of making sure they are supple, and I just warm them up in my hands.

I used to use a tubing bender, like the kind you can get from Harbor Freight, but then an old guy showed me how to "massage bend", which only works with relatively thick wall, small diameter tubing. Like the kind that are used for brake lines. It's hard to explain; but basically you bend by hand while supporting the tubing by squeezing it like you were making a play-doh snake.

120mm

Now that I've thought the process entirely through, I would suggest a change in the instructions. I would plumb the entire system with the Master Cylinder dry. Once everything is attached, remove the Master Cylinder again, then bench bleed it, THEN remount it, with correct torque values on the bolts and b-nuts.

If you have to dither about making lines and b-nuts all fit, that will take time. Time when air bubbles can be introduced into the master cylinder, making bleeding the brake system a major PITA.

Starfury

Agreed. Although you don't actually have to remove the m/c to "bench" bleed it. I left it bolted up, disconnected the lines to the dist block, and bled it on the vehicle. It's much easier to step on the brake pedal than it is to hook the m/c up in a vice and work the piston by hand.

chockostang

Totally correct here--Next there is not a person/Business on this Green Earth that can predict, build, contruct a Disc Brake conversion that all can follow and understand.

With this stated, I feel it is up to the installer, builder to have ample skills to accomplish the task.

Yes, Dennis knows what he is doing, listen and learn.

The National Chain stores----------No Way they know.

Dan @ Chockostang

120mm

The problem with that, is how do you know if it's bled correctly? You need two people to do it that way... Of course, that kind of answers my question. Gotta find a helper to pump the brake.

Meh. I write for a living. Lots of times I write directions for a living. While you are correct about national chain stores is true, what you say about directions is the typical tech savvy person's cop out. Which is why most directions to do things are completely stupid and impractical.

Of course, it's easier to blame the end user than to do it right. Most tech-savvy people use that as an excuse to write crappy directions. Of course most good writers suck at tech stuff.

I don't care if Dennis knows his stuff. His directions are great until the last bit, and then they suck hard. I bet if they added a couple pictures of typical installations and switched up a few words, they would be excellent instructions. If that hurts anyone's feelings, too bad.