Classic Mustangs (Tech)Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.
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I was amazed what SELLERSRODSHOP did but I dont have the welding skills and he got some problems later on becaus the master cylinder was offset
changing that linkage out to heim joints should smooth things out a good bit. as far as the hydraulic setup, i cant help with the pull slave, but i've made a few of these master setups for guys & am installing one on my car right now (c4/t5 swap) . this is a CNC master, recommended on several sites, mounted in the original hole with good clearance around the stock booster.
inside, i made this bracket that wraps around & bolts thru the clutch pedal & aligns with the pushrod on the cnc via a heim joint:
heres a cross section view. helps to have a spare firewall section to set everything up with
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Juit, with all do respect to your work, it is going to fail. I know because I did the same thing. eventually the master will wear because of the wrong angle and the stress on the plunger. then, it will break either the steel bar you have going from the pedal to the rod or it will snap the hiem joint.
I only say this, not to ctritcise your work but to make sure that you are not sitting at a stop light when it does. Your car will lung forward and hit the car in front of you.
I know this because I did almost exactly what you did and mine broke. It took about a year though.
Good luck my friend.
66 coupe, Tuff Dawg forged 10.5:1 - 331, T5, TRick Flow heads, Stealth Intake, Holley 670 Street Avenger, Centerforce Clutch, Headman Headers, Ford Motorsports E303 Cam, 8.8 explorer rear end .373 gears, Cobra 4 wheel disc brakes, 17" TT2's
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